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Laura Domela
Portland, OR
Adventures in travel, technology, and style -- via sea, land, and air
Interests: Airstream, Nordic Tug, travel, camping, boating, cruising, San Juan Islands
Recent Activity
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Kake came through on the work front. We got in lateish (after all the humpback drama in the afternoon), and it was raining and crappy out, so we just made dinner and did a bunch of work. In the morning, we did more work, filled up with water, and then walked a mile or so down to the SOS Value-Mart to get some expensive groceries. On the way to the market: Kake is home to the tallest totem pole in Alaska (maybe the world) at something like 132 feet tall: Otter, munching on something: The forecast for Southern Chatham Strait was for 3 ft seas. At first it was super calm though: Another humpback: Approaching Red Bluff Bay on Baranof Island: We anchored and cooked up some pork tenderloin for dinner. Nearby waterfall: We left late and headed north to Baranof Hot Springs in Warm Springs Bay. On the way, Kevin and Deke caught 6 big rockfish. Oh, check out this crazy eco-tourism boat that anchored near us...with a helicopter on deck. Sweet! Here's our track (33 nautical miles): Related articles Exploring Ketchikan Exploring Ketchikan (Creek Street, Totems, and Brothels) Taku Harbor to Juneau, AK Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Riveted
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Quiet morning in Ford's Terror: Also, another black bear on shore (taken from Airship): We left Ford's Terror at the first high tide (about 20 minutes after high slack in Juneau, and there was just a little bit of current at the pinch point as we came out). Fissures in the steep cliffs on our way out: This water! The narrow spot, looking pretty calm: Deke had his GoPro on the bow and has been recording a bunch of video for time lapse...we'll be posting that later on after he has a chance to do some video editing. Looking back at the "terror": What a fabulous experience, being in this remote spot for two nights...definitely one of the highlights of this trip. Back out in Endicott Arm we saw what looked like a very strange rock (one that didn't look like any other rocks around it on land)....turns out it was not a rock at all, but a dirty iceberg! Glacier on our way back out into Stephens Passage: We decided to go all the way to Kake today, for some internet and cell service. On the way to Kake as we approached Kupreanof Island, we started seeing humpbacks. We... Continue reading
Posted 3 days ago at Riveted
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Ford's Terror is a very steep and narrow fjord 60 miles southeast of Juneau in Alaska's Inside Passage. You can only enter or exit the fjord at high slack tide when the rapids (and the 2-3 foot waterfall!) have turned calm and there is enough water covering the shallow area to let you pass. The Ford's Terror name comes from a naval crew member (Ford) who, in 1889, rowed a dinghy into the narrow entrance of the fjord at slack tide. The tide began to rise, forcing its way through the narrow entrance, and Ford was trapped by the turbulent current for the next six hours. It is mostly uncharted, but with local knowledge and some careful timing, getting in and out of this fjord is a calm and peaceful experience. The Ford's Terror "waiting room": We arrived early (for the evening high slack) and parked ourselves over by the tall waterfall and binoc'ed the entrance. Yep, white waters over there. We decided to fish for a bit to kill some time. (Caught nothin'.) When it was time (about 20 minutes after high slack tide in Juneau), we pointed our stern at the waterfall and headed carefully across, between the... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Riveted
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A giant cruise ship wake rocked us hard awake around 5:15am as it headed past our Tracy Arm unnamed anchorage (sometimes called Tracy Arm Cove and in to see the glaciers). Since we were all awake, we decided to head that way ourselves and left our anchorage at 5:45am. Icebergs on the way in: Stealth iceberg with cool texture: Incredible scenery. The morning wake culprit: We made our way to South Sawyer Glacier (the most active one) because we could. Deke was out on the bow with the boat hook, pushing some of the closer/smaller bits away as we made our way through the ice. The cruise ships left, and we had a nice open spot where we could kill the engine and hang out for a bit so Kevin could fly the new drone and get some glacier footage. Getting ready to take off: Kevin did two full flights and got some fabulous footage. Here's the video! Amazing, huh? We left South Sawyer and headed into Endicott Arm, towards Ford's Terror. More incredible scenery: Ice chicken on an iceberg: Out in Endicott Arm: Oh hey, more humpbacks! Our goal was to get to Ford's Terror for the high high... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Riveted
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We left Taku Harbor this morning and decided to fish a bit on our way to Tracy Arm. We caught two rockfish, and then a really weird other thing we're still trying to figure out what it was. Internetters, if you know...tell us! Rockfish: Weird sluggy thing that went after our ultraviolet hootchie meant for KING SALMON, hint hint weird sluggy thing: Humpbacks on the way into Tracy Arm: Just before we turned into Tracy Arm we met up with Lanette and Ron on Cabernet as they were making their way from Tracy Arm to Taku Harbor. We both slowed up and caught up via VHF, and yell/talking from bow to bow, then continued on. One of these days we'll meet up with them when we actually have time to chat over a glass of wine or something! Another humpback: Outside of the Tracy Arm bar there were several icebergs that had made their way outside, and inside the bar, quite a few more. Icebergs and eagles: Oh right, we also saw two brown (grizzly) bears on the beach just before getting to our anchorage: New spot for the night, in the unnamed cove in Tracy Arm: We ate the... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Riveted
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Tiffani and Deke showed up at Airship (Harris Harbor, Juneau, AK) at 10pm on June 20 (Woohoo! They're finally here!!). On Sunday the 21st we provisioned first thing. The Juneau IGA is a KILLER grocery store. It looks like any other slightly downtrodden rough-weather-place grocery store, but then you walk in and it’s all shiny and new (it’s like a geode!) and the selection they have of EVERYTHING is really good. (They recently remodeled!) We hit the IGA and Kenny’s Liquor Store next door and then Deke and Kevin dropped Tiffani and me off back at Airship (to find room for all the new provisions) while they went and gathered a few more fishing things. Next, we all headed out to Mendenhall Glacier. First thing we saw? Of course, a porcupine in a tree, eating leaves. The park ranger was standing beneath the tree with a little jar of porcupine quills and we got to hold and touch it and learn some stuff about porcupines. Neat! Glacier, waterfall: After the glacier we stopped at a place called the Sand Bar & Grill for some halibut fish & chips. This place came highly recommended by locals, and let us tell ya...the... Continue reading
Posted 6 days ago at Riveted
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Yesterday we did a bunch of errand-y stuff...did laundry at the laundromat, got some good rubber gloves at the marine store, got more fishing stuff, put together the rail-mount fish cleaning table and installed it, organized all the fishing gear, cleaned out the lazarette, cleaned the grill, and just did a bunch more general organizing, rearranging, and cleaning...basically, getting ready for guests! Last night we decided to go out to dinner in town and chose The Rookery Cafe. Several of our friends had recommended it, it had good Yelp reviews, and we were in the mood not to cook! On the waterfront between Harris Harbor and town: I love this mural on the City Hall building, with the totem faces on actual animals. The mural was painted by local artist Bill Ray, and depicts the Tlingit mythology of creation when Raven discovers mankind in a clam shell: Dinner was fabulous. We started with a crudo of king salmon with creme fraiche, horseradish and nasturtium leaves, and shared a delicious caesar salad. We ordered two entrees to share: (1) a seared Alaskan halibut with carrot puree, pickled carrots, and sauteed broccoli rabe... ...and (2) more king salmon. with figs, black lentils,... Continue reading
Posted Jun 20, 2015 at Riveted
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This morning we got up on the early side (I know, big shocker) and Kevin went out the check the crab traps. He took the walkie talkie with him, and pretty soon I get a call saying the first trap was stuffed full with crabs and that he doesn't even know how many are in there. This is how many legal males we had: 15!! We limited out again, so we put some back. But holy moly! We have a lot of crab cleaning and cooking and picking to do! (These are all WAY bigger than the six-and-a-half-inches-not-counting-horns measurement across the back. WAY bigger.) :) We got out of Taku Harbor at 7am (before the 3 foot minus tide, so we could get our boat out from the inside dock space!) and decided to troll for salmon. Our cruise to Juneau was only 19 miles, so we had time. It was quiet and drizzling a little as we motored on, watching a couple of eagles fishing alongside us (good sign!): We'd barely exited the harbor when there was a big splash next to the boat. We looked around and waited, and pretty soon there were four Pacific white-sided dolphins playing... Continue reading
Posted Jun 18, 2015 at Riveted
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Today was another 50+ mile day, so we left Pybus Bay at 6am (after pulling in one more Dungeness crab). Kevin pulling up crab traps at 5:30am: I'm glad it was clear when we arrived, or we'd have missed those beautiful mountains back there, covered by the misty gray this morning. One of the rocky islets in the entrance to Pybus Bay: We cruised up Stephens Passage (forecast for seas 3 feet but this morning changed to less than 2 feet) and it looked like this pretty much the whole way: We saw humpbacks ALL ALONG OUR CRUISE. All. Along. We probably saw 40 or 50 humpbacks. Here are a few (too many) photos: Humpback at 2 o'clock! Humpback in the foreground, with two more behind him: I'll chill out on the humpback photos, but it was super cool. Oh yeah, we also saw a seal tossing a salmon about before he ate ‘im. It was raining and pretty gray, but I managed to get a few long lens shots: We were the third boat to show up at Taku Harbor (two other Nordic Tugs were already there, a 37 and an older 32) and we opted for the north... Continue reading
Posted Jun 18, 2015 at Riveted
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We got up early and were moving by 6am. Today is a 50 mile day to Cannery Cove at Pybus Bay and we figured we’d make miles while it was relatively calm. The forecast for Frederick Sound was 3 foot seas, but it was only like that for the last hour or so…the rest was pretty calm. We saw several humpbacks from a pretty good distance as we were in the open part of Frederick Sound: Just off of the Brothers Islands, there were some even closer (and HUGE): Pybus Bay is at the southern tip of Admiralty Island, and the entrance is dotted with rocky islands. It’s gorgeous! (And the weather continued to be so nice!) Entering Cannery Cove: Our new anchorage: There are some huge cool-looking jellyfish in here! We put out some crab traps and dropped two more halibut lines and then took the dinghy out to look for bears. Almost immediately we spotted a sow and two cubs: One of the cubs, noticing us: We ventured around the corner into a small bay and surprised a young male (I think) as he was loping toward the water. As soon as he saw us he took off... Continue reading
Posted Jun 18, 2015 at Riveted
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We’d originally planned to stay in Petersburg for two nights, but after one day there we felt like we’d mostly seen the town (cute, and very deserted on a Sunday), so we headed over to Thomas Bay to check out Baird Glacier and Scenery Cove. On our way, in Frederick Sound: Just outside of Petersburg on he west side of Frederick Sound, we saw a bunch of fish on sonar and decided to troll for a bit. And, we caught a salmon! This sockeye will be dinner tonight. Baird Glacier doesn’t quite make it to the bay anymore…there are mud flats in front of it, and the chart (of course) is not accurate as you get closer to the glacier, so watch your depths! After we checked out the glacier (whoa, 200 feet deep is now 18 feet) we took a short tour around Scenery Cove and we concur that this cove is aptly named. Coming around the corner into Scenery Cove: We anchored over by Ruth Island and promptly set out the crab pots and put a couple lines in the water. We caught two legal male Dungeness crabs, one small Tanner crab (threw him back) and no halibut.... Continue reading
Posted Jun 18, 2015 at Riveted
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Last night's sunset in Wrangell: Nice view just outside the breakwater this morning: We left Wrangell this morning at 8am, allowing three hours to get to the south entrance of Wrangell Narrows. The tide enters Wrangell Narrows from both ends, so you want to enter from the south at the end of a flood tide so you can ride it in, arrive in the middle around slack tide, and then ride the ebb up to Petersburg. We texted back and forth with our friends on Cabernet, who were staying the night...somewhere else...I forgot...(Hi Lanette and Ron!) and decided to meet them at 11am near Point Alexander and Midway Rock. More nice view: While we were passing between Vank Island and Sokolof Island, we noticed a ton of bait fish jumping, so we turned on the sonar and whoa there were a lot of fish showing up down there. We did a little turn around and decided to drag a line through 'em, but no luck. (We didn't give it that long, since we had an 11am meeting to make.) The aptly named Two Tree Island. (What happens if more trees grow??): Hey, it's Cabernet! We both followed this fish boat... Continue reading
Posted Jun 14, 2015 at Riveted
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After the Incident at Fury Cove, I convinced Kevin that he couldn't go the rest of our trip droneless, and he eventually caved and ordered the new DJI Inspire 1. We took it out for its maiden flight over at Meyers Chuck the other day. As it takes off and raises into the air, its landing gear raises up and gets out of the way of the camera. Pretty sweet! Taking off from the sea plane dock: The camera can shoot 4K video and 12 megapixel stills and it's on a 3-axis gimbal. The camera and gimbal can be controlled by a second person with a separate controller. (Woohoo! That's me!) We didn't try that fancy second person thing on the first flight. Here's a little of our test footage: Looks promising! Related articles Meyers Chuck, AK Day 6 - Port Harvey and the Ratfish Day 13 - Shearwater to Rescue Bay Eagles Eagles Everywhere Hanging Out in Ketchikan Continue reading
Posted Jun 14, 2015 at Riveted
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This morning we awoke briefly at 3:30am to what seemed like a bright and sunny day. Problem was, it was 3:30am. We went back to sleep and woke up some time after 6 and decided to get an early start. Meyers Chuck at 7am when we pulled out: Nice and calm at Meyers Chuck, but pretty snotty out in Clarence Strait. Probably 3-4 foot seas...luckily, we were only in a for a little bit before we headed back inside to take the scenic route to Wrangell. We saw a couple humpbacks on our way. We actually still slowed (we aren't so jaded yet) but didn't follow them to get any better photos than this: We took the inside Zimovia Strait route. Gorgeous scenery along the way: Approaching Wrangell: We got a spot on the long dock at Reliance Harbor (the older docks, closest to town) and headed into town to explore. We took a walk around Shakes Island first. Shakes Island is a very small island reached by a pedestrian bridge right here near the docks at Reliance. There's a replica of the Chief Shakes tribal house, and a bunch of old totems under cover. It's hard to find any... Continue reading
Posted Jun 13, 2015 at Riveted
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We left Ketchikan this morning and headed for Meyers Chuck. Passing a Holland America cruise ship on our way out of Tongass Narrows: Clarence Strait was a tiny bit choppy, but not bad at all. Guard Island Lighthouse: Look how calm it is just past the tip of Cleveland Island: Meyers Chuck is about half way between Ketchikan and Wrangell (which is where we'll head tomororw). It's quite a charming little spot: Free city float (no services): It's so calm and quiet here today. There are just a few boats and fewer people around. We walked up to the gallery, but Cassie's gone for the week so the gallery was closed (and that means no cinnamon rolls in the morning...maybe next time). Trail to the gallery: I peeked in the windows though and there look to be many interesting things in there...some gorgeous quilts, a few beautiful wooden bowls, jewelry, etc. Next time on that too! Now we're back at Airship taking apart the outboard's carburetor and cleaning it, again, so that maybe we can get the dang thing to idle better. Kevin's got the new copter out and we may take it up for its maiden flight. It's a... Continue reading
Posted Jun 12, 2015 at Riveted
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Here are a couple of snaps I took yesterday in the marina. It was quite rainy, so I spent most of the day working and catching up on things requiring the internets (while Kevin finished up his conference in San Francisco), but I did take a break to go pick up Kevin's new copter from Frontier Shipping. (New copter!!) Frontier Shipping is great--you can have packages sent to them for a buck a box. The little circuit breaker we ordered from Fisheries Supply in Seattle (box about 2" x 5 x 7") = $1. The new copter (box about 24" x 24" x 18") = $1. They'll also hold something for a year or more. A year!! We also bought a satellite communicator, so now when we're in the boonies away from all other connections, as long as we can see the sky we can be connected via text message, SOS call, and satellite tracking. Nice to have! We got the DeLorme inReach SE . It'll pair via Bluetooth with an iPhone so you can use the app on your phone to type text messages or make tracking changes. Compared with the device's keyboard system (right, right, right, D, enter,... Continue reading
Posted Jun 11, 2015 at Riveted
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You remember the ratfish incident in Port Harvey, right? (Click that link if you don't.) Well the ratfish has crept into many conversations since then...the weird "girl grabbing appendage" (called a tenaculum) on its head that grabs with little Velcro-like hooks onto the fin of the female ratfish during mating, the long "graspers" that hang from beneath it to also grab the female ratfish during mating...there's a lot to talk about, about the ratfish. Ratfish belong to an ancient species of shark relatives--Chimaera--a very primitive group of fish dating back more than 300 million years. Our flotilla group has had many conversations about the ratfish since qw pulled one up on our crab trap: (1) that we should have a flotilla burgee designed with a ratfish on it, (2) that the secret "Waggoner Flotilla 2015 Greeting" should be a bent forefinger at the forehead, mimicking the protruding tenaculum on the forehead of the male ratfish...you get the idea. Lots of silliness. The other night while having dinner at the Bar Harbor Restaurant, Brigette stopped by our table. Brigette Ellis is a friend of Mark's and the owner of the Alaska Eagle Arts Gallery with her husband, artist Marvin Oliver. She'd... Continue reading
Posted Jun 10, 2015 at Riveted
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Late this morning after a bunch of work, I headed down to Saxman Village to check out some more Tlinget, Haida, and Tsimshian totem art. I just did the $5 grounds ticket and not the $35 tour guide tour, so I didn't get to learn which totems were which tribes and which carvers did what, and unlike at Totem Bight, there wasn't a little guide with numbers that you could follow on your own (at least not that I found). I admit, I was really just in "chill and wander" mode, so I didn't even ask many questions. I guess I need to go back and do the tour like a responsible tourist, but until then, here are some caption-less photos from Saxman Village. This one is probably Haida: These next two: Tlingit (because of the uncarved space on the pole, signifying respect for whatever's up top): As you can see, the weather in Ketchikan today was sunny and clear. It was 63 degrees F when I just looked at 6pm. I hopped the bus back into town and grabbed lunch at the New York Hotel next to Creek Street (a yummy spinach salad with a salmon filet). I still... Continue reading
Posted Jun 9, 2015 at Riveted
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Yesterday it rained ALL DAY. Okay, I exaggerate. It stopped for about a half hour once at about 5pm. I worked most of the day from the boat, and then in the afternoon when it was just drizzling (and not raining sideways anymore), I walked up to Tongass and exchanged my Xtratufs for one size up...then hopped on the bus into town and explored a bit, just to get out and walk...wet as it was. I picked up a rain hat with a brim, and then hopped off the return bus and grabbed a few things at Safeway before walking the rest of the way back to the marina. (That's the bit of time when it wasn't raining). Today though, the weather was glorious. I woke up at 6:30am to sun streaming through the portlights and a square of blue sky over my head showing through the hatch. I still worked most of the day here on the boat, but this time with the windows and doors all open letting the fresh air and eagle sounds in. The open doors and windows also let in the sounds of the Ketchikan Duck Tour soundtrack, which consists of a snippet from Hawaii... Continue reading
Posted Jun 8, 2015 at Riveted
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This morning we were on the boat working when we noticed more than the usual number of eagles flying around us. Adults and juveniles flying right past the windows, making their loud eagle sounds. There were maybe...oh, I dunno, FIFTY of them!! In this photo above (taken from the back of Airship) you can see quite a few flying, but look at where that culvert is...it's low tide, and there are probably 20 of them down there where the water is coming out. A couple of them were even going underneath the flow, as if to shower. Eagles are like pigeons here in Ketchikan. Back on the hill there were still a handful up in the trees: There was one on almost every piling near us, and several on some of the taller boat masts: It was cool, and a little Hitchcockian. Anyway, thought I'd share. Continue reading
Posted Jun 6, 2015 at Riveted
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The weather improved quite a bit today, and after a whole lot of work in the morning we caught the free shuttle bus downtown for more exploring. It was late enough and the cruise ships were leaving early enough today that it wasn't super crowded either. Bonus! We met Margaret for some lunch at the Alaska Fish House (halibut tacos and halibut fish & chips...both good).] After that we headed over to the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center and wandered through their exhibits (informative and well done). Next we thought we'd walk Creek Street again since the weather was much better for some photos than it was yesterday. We stopped by the Alaska Eagle Art Gallery on Creek Street again and I bought a beautiful salmon pendant in the Northwest Coast formline design by artist Marvin Oliver. I loved it it when I saw it in the gallery last night when we stopped by, and when we came back today, I still loved it...so now I'm wearing it. Creek Street: Dolly's House (brothel, est. 1919), now a museum: This (below) is the "Married Man's Trail" that leads to Creek Street from the back side of town. From Destination 360: "At the... Continue reading
Posted Jun 6, 2015 at Riveted
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We've got some really rowdy neighbors here at the Bar Harbor marina in Ketchikan! Yesterday we worked all morning and then headed up to nearby Tongass Trading to spend a few boat dollars. We picked up an Anchor Buddy and two small anchors for the dinghy, a new gas can (also for the dinghy...the one we have sometimes leaks when it gets heated by the sun), another dry bag, and a couple of bungee straps for miscellaneous things. In the afternoon we hopped on the city bus (two bucks gets you an all day pass) with Mark and headed out to Totem Bight State Park. Totem Bight is home to 15 totem poles from abandoned Tlingit and Haida villages. Eagle Grave Marker. The original stood in the old village of Howkan, and was copied from memory by John Wallace. The addition of the Chilkat blanket to this pole makes it unique, and not a common art form found on totem poles. The design is interpreted as mountains, clouds and creatures that live there. Wooded paths lead you out to the water's edge and to a field with more totems: Kadjuk Bird Pole: This Tlingit pole was copied from Cat Island.... Continue reading
Posted Jun 5, 2015 at Riveted
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Airship Goes to Alaska - Day 18 (Hi from Ketchikan...we made it!) The alarm went off at 4am this morning in Prince Rupert and we got up and checked the weather for Dixon Entrance again. It was the same forecast. Waves less than a meter. Wind something something no big deal, and then by tomorrow afternoon it was supposed to pick up (both wind and waves) so our decision to do the whole trip today was still a good plan. Mark and Margaret delivered briefings (and cinnamon rolls and chocolate covered espresso beans--so sweet!) and off we went! Passing the Hai Qing from Hong Kong in the harbor on our way across to Venn Passage: Working our way through Venn Passage: Green Island Lighthouse (the most northerly lighthouse in British Columbia, built in 1905): That thing that looks like a zip line running down to the rocks and the sea is actually how they get supplies from boats up to the lighthouse. Imagine hanging out there unloading stuff in that water by those rocks. Nope. Entering Dixon Entrance: We saw some dolphins or porpoises (it was still kinda dark) and then a humpback right off our nose: Our crossing was... Continue reading
Posted Jun 3, 2015 at Riveted
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Airship Goes to Alaska - Day 17 Today was a 60 mile day form Lowe Inlet to Prince Rupert. We left Lowe Inlet at 7:30am and the cruise was pretty chill. No dolphins or humpbacks, but we did see a couple of deer attempting to swim across the Grenville Channel. It's a pretty wide channel and we were all uncertain whether they'd make it (or why they were heading out in the first place). Perhaps they were running from something (bears)? Cool rock textures: We arrived in Prince Rupert at 3pm today. It's quite a change from where we've been the past couple weeks. Cranes! Giant ships! Trucks! On either side of this tug, there were places that said "Tug" with an arrow. Looks like he missed: We're at the Prince Rupert Rowing & Yacht Club for the night: We finally had some good internet and cell service, so we did a TON of work in a short period of time, and I was able to post the past four days of posts that I'd written offline. At 6:15pm we all headed up to the Waterfront Restaurant at the Crest Hotel for a nice dinner. This was the view from... Continue reading
Posted Jun 2, 2015 at Riveted
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Airship Goes to Alaska - Day 16 We left Bishop Bay this morning at 8am. Margaret had set a crab trap out last night, but this morning it was gone. She dinghied around trying to find it this morning, but no luck. On our way out, someone spotted it in this gigantic snag that had come off the shore and became its own island in the middle of the bay, so Mark maneuvered alongside it and Margaret was able to grab it with a boat hook. No crabs, however. Today’s cruise was a gorgeous one. More Pacific White-Sided Dolphins surfed our bow wake, and the weather was perfect. We got to Lowe Inlet and a few of us had a little trouble anchoring in here (deep deep deep in the middle, and then very quick to super shallow around the edges) but we all eventually got settled. Mark came over to show me how to clean out the sea strainer (super easy) and then we had Mark and Margaret over for dinner later on. (That’s the deal…help with boat things equals dinner.) Margaret baked cupcakes and passed them out via dinghy to all the boats (along with our briefing for... Continue reading
Posted Jun 2, 2015 at Riveted