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Back in St. Thomas again, recovering from the crossing and preparing for sailing to the Western Caribbean.
We lived aboard a Cheoy Lee Sailboat year-round in Maine for 8 years. In October, 2010 we set sail for the Bahamas and Caribbean.
Interests: travel, dogs, sailing, Maine, writing, sailboat maintenance, living on a sailboat, Bahamas, Caribbean, Cartagena, Grenada, Azores, Guatemala, San Blas, photography, food, more of the Azores.
Recent Activity
Let’s travel back in time. Now that I have the new laptop up and running and can once again edit and upload photos, you deserve a bit about Carnival in Guadeloupe. We had been told that the parade in Pointe-a-Pitre would be one of the longest in the Caribbean with over 70 different groups marching. Some boaters opted to anchor near the city, but we like Islet du Gosier and didn’t want to move, so early that week EW and I visited the office of tourism there. Unlike the larger tourism office in Pointe-a-Pitre, the one is Gosier was welcoming,... Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Harts At Sea
The laptop is (mostly) fully loaded and ready to go. In preparation for starting to post regularly (again), this morning I read Facebook for a while, read part of a novel, commented on Facebook some more, downloaded photos from camera to laptop (finally), and went on-line to read my blog from the beginning of the Endurance Crossing to now. There was a pause in the middle of all of that while I helped EW with the manual bilge pump. As my last act before beginning to write, I finally read all the comments made on the blog while we were... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Harts At Sea
At the time, we were living on the boat in a slip with Time Warner cable wired in, so I had excellent Internet access. I would write a post and post it. I would write a post on-line, send up photos one by one, and post it. Those were the days. Once we started cruising in 2010, I learned that all Internet access isn’t equal and that it’s difficult to get on-line when one wants to. Connectivity was a challenge as we sailed down the eastern seaboard. I rarely had Wi-Fi on the boat, but usually found bars, laundry mats, and other places where I could gain access to the Internet. Still, writing posts on-line in real time was no longer feasible. Continue reading
Posted Mar 17, 2015 at Harts At Sea
Me: Honey, do we have more of that white paint for the inside? Where is it? (This is a fair question. Just like our former land homes, EW has parts and boat stuff stored (hidden) in various nooks and crannies. Now that I’ve experienced living aboard at sea, on remote islands, and where familiar parts aren’t available, I’m good with that. Extra parts are a good thing.) EW: Except for what’s left in that one quart can, we don’t have any more. Me: Really? I thought we had more. EW: We did have more. We had at least four or five cans. You made me give them away. Continue reading
Posted Mar 16, 2015 at Harts At Sea
EW and I look back, and we’ll definitely visit foreign shores and islands again. But America is home, and we are proud to be American. However, just as I have done things of which I am not proud, I am not proud to be associated with every individual American all the time. (Don't get me started about the typical "ugly American" travelers I've seen during our travels. That's another topic.) Continue reading
Posted Mar 12, 2015 at Harts At Sea
Ilet Du Gosier This post brought to you by procrastination and the continuing lack of a laptop. We are currently in St Thomas enjoying time with The Cousins and cruising friends, and having a US cell phone. Life is good. It was also good when we were anchored in Ilet Du Gosier. The other morning I sat on deck with my notebook. You remember those ancient tools for writing: pen, ink, and paper? Yep. I'm back to that as I attempted to record the magic that is the anchorage of Islet Du Gosier. It was just after 0800 on a... Continue reading
Posted Mar 4, 2015 at Harts At Sea
> > There haven't been a lot of American boats here at Ilet Du Gosier so we hang out with the Canadians. French Canadians and French sailors flock to Guadeloupe just as American, British, and the rest of the Canadians prefer Antigua, and the Virgins. I won't say that we haven't have language challenges getting work done here, but EW and I have spent most of the last six months in non-English speaking countries and we are developing patience and a deep appreciation for those who are multi-lingual. > > We try to add to our vocabulary every day and... Continue reading
Posted Feb 22, 2015 at Harts At Sea
Most who know me would agree that I'm a pretty upbeat person. Good thing most of you didn't see me during the first two weeks in Guadeloupe. Things were much better after Lynn and Ken joined us and led a number of adventures and somehow opened the floodgates for sailors from America, Canada, and Great Britain. Still, EW and I found ourselves uncharacteristically melancholy, and I discovered one day that instead of my normal enthusiasm, I felt a bit like Charlie Brown's friend PigPen, who walked around followed by a cloud. Things improved when we motored three miles to Ilet... Continue reading
Posted Feb 19, 2015 at Harts At Sea
After four weeks in Point a Pitre we finally moved the boat to Ilet Du Gosier---just three miles south and a world away from the hustle, speedboats, cruise ships, and tankers. The grocery shopping is nearly as good here, and even better in some cases. There is a tiny little hardware store that exchanges the camping gas bottles; the friendliest, most competent English speaking tourist office person; and multiple places to purchase baguettes and pain du chocolate. All that and more, including beaches and an amazing "floating"salt water swimming pool are on the "mainland". Can islands have a mainland? But... Continue reading
Posted Feb 16, 2015 at Harts At Sea
Inquiring minds want to know. Hell, I want to know. We are mostly absent on Facebook, correspond rarely on email, and you have every reason to believe I've forgotten the blog. We find it hard to believe that we've been in Guadeloupe for six weeks. The first four weeks were definitely not a case of time flying when you are having fun. We were not having fun. I have a list of 17 significant things that went wrong or broke on the crossing. EW and I have recovered but some things are still not fixed and others have joined the... Continue reading
Posted Feb 16, 2015 at Harts At Sea
Most particularly when things are challenging, EW and I evidently have to have friends who speak our language. We were getting testy during our first three weeks here---and a little bit manic. While reading my blog when they were in St. Lucia, Lynn from Silverheels III realized that we were isolated. Bless her. That same day, I was delighted to return to the anchorage to see an American flag fluttering from the back of a sweet cruising boat. I sped to their transom to see that they were from Maine! No kidding. We were thrilled to meet Elaine and Dutch,... Continue reading
Posted Jan 30, 2015 at Harts At Sea
We who cruise internationally make light of French sailors and their proclivity of anchoring very close to other boats. If there is a large anchorage with a few boats and lots of prime open space, odds are that the French sailor will anchor well within another boat’s safe zone. An international group of sailors who befriended us in the Canaries mentioned that all through the Med, Turkey, and Croatia, they prepared to defend their small circle of territory when ever any French boat entered the harbor. This is even acknowledged when self-aware French sailors discuss anchoring. In a recent conversation, one Canadian cruiser said that she had to repress a laugh when a friend from France complained about someone anchoring too close to her boat. The French woman caught the Canadian’s eye and had the grace to laugh first. The implication is that if a French sailor thinks you are too close –—you are most certainly to darn close! Continue reading
Posted Jan 24, 2015 at Harts At Sea
If The Pink Panther is my reference for the French language, you know I’ve got problems. EW and I are isolated here in Pointe a Pitre. Granted, the first week and a half we weren’t fit for company, but now that we’re feeling more social, we haven’t found any English speaking cruisers. In fact, it was much easier to find American and cruisers from other English-speaking countries while we were in the Canaries than it is to find them here. We have always liked Guadeloupe, but have visited more obvious cruising ports of Deshaies and Isles de Saintes where we... Continue reading
Posted Jan 15, 2015 at Harts At Sea
It’s been an exciting week in Pointe a Pitre, where all the women are strong and the men are good-looking, and the anchorages are above average. La Luna is still happily at anchor just outside the marina at Bas du Fort. The anchorage is a bit bumpy because the power boaters are without clue regarding waves and wake, but it’s close to the dock and we’ll stay here until the refrigeration is repaired, and then we’ll move to a quieter spot across the bay. In the meantime, EW has seen a doctor because the bug bites continue to poison him... Continue reading
Posted Jan 12, 2015 at Harts At Sea
EW just informed me that we arrived a week ago today. How time flies when .. Well, fun wasn't on the agenda this week, though, yes we have enjoyed a bit of French food and wine. Just a bit. We opted for Guadeloupe because I want to spend time at anchor in some of my favorite places. We chose to first visit Pointe a Pitre because we have issues to take care of. This week, some of the more difficult bits were crossed off the list, necessitating roaming the city and it's surrounding area on foot, in a bus, in... Continue reading
Posted Jan 4, 2015 at Harts At Sea
On our last night at sea, I had the 1800 to midnight watch -- the watch with the moon. It was so lovely, that I got my notebook out and wrote under the stars. "We are sailing on a moonbeam of brilliant light from a wisp of a La Luna moon, a curved sliver of moon that still somehow creates an impossibly brilliant night. Except for the moon, the stars, and La Luna's sails it is a grey night. The sea is a darker grey than the paler sky. We are reaching, powered by the wind and pushed a bit... Continue reading
Posted Dec 29, 2014 at Harts At Sea
The 27th of December was a beautiful day. During my watch at midday, I enjoyed swell swells (yet another thing that has been lacking during this crossing), rolling up and under the boat in a calming rhythmic motion. EW sat on the settee down below, playing guitar and singing. This was how cruising was supposed to be. Almost. For breakfast, I had made yet another hoebread, this one with oatmeal, served with peanut butter, and we each had a cup of tea. Heating water for tea uses much less butane than making coffee. EW had enjoyed a cup of tea... Continue reading
Posted Dec 28, 2014 at Harts At Sea
Back to being thankful, but first -- I hope all who celebrate Christmas had a wonderful Christmas day, filled with food, family, friends, and presents from the heart. And I hope that all for whom December 25 is just another day that you too had a wonderful day -- visiting with Christmas revelers, or spending the day doing exactly as you wished, perhaps with food, family, friends, and presence with your heart's desire. Three things for which I am thankful: 1. Grog. EW, formerly known as Captain Bligh, has a no alcohol rule under way. It's actually a good rule... Continue reading
Posted Dec 26, 2014 at Harts At Sea
We are still creeping to Guadalupe. We have fewer than 400 miles to go. The winds are still lighter than predicted. We still have no refrigeration and have just pulled out the last butane can for the portable stove. Today I had the glorious task of cleaning out the freezer. We fed the fishes. If sharks start following us, we'll know why. Frankly, this part of the sail is as boring as the previous paragraph. My biggest challenge is to plan meals with no oven, limited butane, and nothing left in the fridge or freezer. EW is deeply appreciative, and... Continue reading
Posted Dec 24, 2014 at Harts At Sea
Two of my Dad's swear expressions were "Balls!" or the infamous "All balled up!". Of course, as a teenager of the 70's I thought I knew what he meant, but my eclectic education at UMO convinced me that I may have been wrong. According to "Maine Lingo" by John Gould, those two terms are credited to men who worked oxen and horse teams in Maine's winter woods, as my dad did. Both expressions refer to wet snow balling up the heavily laden sled, causing it to get "all balled up". When that happened, the appropriate curse was "Balls!" (In true... Continue reading
Posted Dec 22, 2014 at Harts At Sea
Careful readers may have surmised that this has not been a stress-free trip, and they would be correct. We've messed up and La Luna has messed up and there has been no "at least it happened here" moments since the alternator died just outside of the marina in Tenerife. We've had so many "Oh S#O*!" moments that I started a list. It now numbers 15. Don't ask. Still, we try to keep both a sense of humor and a proper perspective. We are safe, we have plenty of food and water, and we are sailing to our goal. Just damn... Continue reading
Posted Dec 20, 2014 at Harts At Sea
So -- the Christmas winds that weren't died today and we are eeking along at 3 knots in 6 knots of winds from the East. It's that kind of passage. Meantime, our friends on Hobnob, who left Cape Verdes about 3 days after we turned West endured seas and winds so rough that they were under staysail alone for at least 2 days -- maybe more. Such is the sailing life. We have seen the occasional sea bird, and a number of flying fish. We've returned three of those to the sea - -one was still alive at the time... Continue reading
Posted Dec 18, 2014 at Harts At Sea
It ain't what it's cracked up to be. Seriously. When we started out from Tenerife and had to go south, I bitched because EW had promised me an easy downwind sail like the one he had enjoyed on S/V Bear in 2008, and instead we sailed south almost to the Cape Verde Islands. (EW says he didn't promise -- he raised my expectations, but didn't promise. Sounded like a promise to me.) Now we have wonderful trade winds, directly from the east and could easily lay our line to Guadeloupe. But man, is it noisy and bouncy and ugly going... Continue reading
Posted Dec 16, 2014 at Harts At Sea
As I start this post, it's 0845 UTC (quarter to nine in the morning), or 0345 (quarter to four in the morning) on the East Coast of the US on Sunday the 14th. We have not changed our clocks thus far and now a couple of hundred miles short of a pseudo half-way point, we find time to be relative. The sky is light, but the sun has not yet risen. That means that In Real Life it's much earlier than almost nine in the morning here, but on La Luna the sun rises late. I wrote about this on... Continue reading
Posted Dec 15, 2014 at Harts At Sea
Tonight, we are sailing on the sea of our dreams. There is very little swell; we have between 10 and 12 knots of wind directly from the east (finally); sailing under reduced main, reduced jib, and staysail on a dark and starry night. The moon, bright but not full, won't make an appearance until after midnight, during EW's watch. I am sailing in the dark, the only way I can tell sea from sky is by the stars. Our speed sometimes reaches 5 knots -- a meandering for a horse, or a jog for a runner --- at sea on... Continue reading
Posted Dec 14, 2014 at Harts At Sea