Alison— Thanks for your comment! We must be talking about different locations of Il Gelato, though; I also passed by this weekend, and the Monte d'Oro location was definitely closed—shop gutted, signs taken off, etc. Strange??? As for Giolitti, it's great to hear they do make their gelato fresh, perhaps I've just had bad luck with the cups I've had! I'll have to give them another shot! Trina— Thanks for your comment! Glad you dream of Ciampini, too. It's what I look forward to all year long...

Hi Lilian, It's lovely to hear from you, and I'm glad you enjoy the blog! The hypogeum and 3rd level of the Colosseum are open now. If you're on a budget, the cheapest option is definitely to go through the Colosseum directly; the only other tour companies I'm aware of with tours that include those sections are Dark Rome and Walks of Italy. Here's more about your options: http://www.revealedrome.com/2011/06/colosseum-underground-hypogeum-rome-travel-tips.html Let me know if I can help with anything else!

Thanks for your kind words, Anna! The San Giovanni or Testaccio areas are both good options; depending on where you are in Testaccio, you might not be aware of that "outdoor party spirit" at all (it's really only applicable right around Monte Testaccio, so most of Testaccio, in fact, is pretty well shielded from it). Personally, I'd pick Testaccio over San Giovanni (even to live!), as Testaccio does have more character and atmosphere, and better food as well! Just make sure your place isn't right near the clubs and you'll be fine. Let me know if I can do anything else!