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Alun Carr
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Use DxO Film Pack to convert to B&W: they measured the photometric response of Tri-X (amongst others), as well as the grain structure. If their Tri-X conversion is good enough for Salgado, it's good enough for me. Admittedly, I prefer Ilford FP4 (but then, I'm a Brit), though my biggest photo project was on Tri-X, pushed to 800 ASA or higher using either Paterson Accuspeed or May & Baker Promicrol. ["Digital film" mimicking doesn't work for me. I don't have any experimental evidence of this, but I suspect it's because they mimic the film and not the film and paper. The paper adds another curve and its own qualities and characteristics. Besides, there's no such thing as the "Tri-X look." I could get many different looks from Tri-X (or any B&W film), depending on the exposure, developer, time and agitation, enlarger light source, and the paper. There's no one film look for any one film, so the chances of mimicking it with a preset are zero because they're just shooting for one target when there are ten or twenty targets to hit. Even if they could hit the one they're aiming at, which they can't, the chances that we're both aiming for the same target are slim. --Mike]
Toggle Commented Jun 15, 2013 on Lillian and Rebecca at The Online Photographer
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Jun 14, 2013