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Dave Cook
I maintain a website called Eating In Translation about interesting, usually inexpensive food in and around New York.
Interests: Classic films, fiction, travel (even if it's an extended day trip), poker (friendly games only), collecting (mostly flat things, since my apartment is small), trivia (covers most everything else).
Recent Activity
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"Stewed pork noodles with pork" is the menu's less... Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Eating In Translation
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Shown: a pastelito de carne and a bola de yuca, each with a little bit off the top. H/T Jared Cohee, Eat The World NYC Dominican snack window beside Mariel Barbershop 271 East 188th St. (at Tiebout Ave.), Fordham Heights, Bronx Continue reading
Posted 2 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Soup and sandwiches, Mexico City style. Shown: sopa de calabacita con elote (with zucchini and corn, plus chips); tortas de bistec en pasilla y al pastor (featuring, respectively, top round steak and pork tenderloin, each well-marinated). Half-sandwiches were the consequence, as you've guessed, of a tabletop swap with a dining... Continue reading
Posted 3 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Unlike many modern-day Chinese characters, chuàn suggests its meaning by its appearance. Often it identifies items in rows or strings, such as beads on an abacus, pearls on a necklace, or a sequence of characters in computer software. Writ large in the window of a restaurant, chuàn signals skewered bits... Continue reading
Posted 4 days ago at Eating In Translation
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NYC's Conference on Hunger and Poverty Thursday, February 15, 8:00-5:00 Marriott Marquis Times Square, 1535 Broadway (at 46th Sts.), Manhattan www.FoodBankNYC.org/events/nycconference2018 Tickets: general admission, $65; Food Bank member agencies, $35 Chinese New Year Celebration at MOFAD Friday, February 16, 6:00-8:00 Museum of Food and Drink, 62 Bayard St. (Lorimer-Leonard Sts.),... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Rice noodles three ways, after the manner of the proprietor’s ancestral home in the Chinese province of Yunnan ("South of the Clouds," in poetic translation). The first drapes them in minced pork and silken tofu; the second immerses noodles and beef in soup. The third is best; more pork surmounts... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at Eating In Translation
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One whets the appetite, the other pacifies the palate: chicken tandoori and mishti doi, the sweetened yogurt that caps off many a Bangladeshi meal. For the full spread, see the EIT page on Facebook. Thanks to Joe DiStefano of the Queens Dinner Club for good food, good company, and a... Continue reading
Posted Feb 11, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Some much-loved, wonderful dishes don't dress up even for special occasions. At this longstanding festival ("Slavonic," in this context, can be understood as "Slavic") the appearance of many menu items relied on a rather drab palette. To wit: beef goulash ("Slovak-style goulash, made by Ochlan family"), the sauteed combo of... Continue reading
Posted Feb 10, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Ganmian pi, or "handmade cold noodles" in the menu's parlance, are a close relation to liang pi. Like the version of those "cold skin noodles" prepared by Xi'an Famous Foods, ganmian pi are made from wheat flour. These were tossed with bean sprouts, cucumber, shreds of wheat gluten, and chiles... Continue reading
Posted Feb 9, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Hand-fashioned signs, composed with chalk or pen, paintbrush or grease pencil, are an increasingly common sight in many Queens neighborhoods. In spirit, these signs are as different from their mass-produced counterparts as a batch of homemade cookies, still warm from the oven, is different from a commercially packaged sack on... Continue reading
Posted Feb 8, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Food of the Gods: Cacao Culture in Central America Thursday, February 8, 5:00-6:00 The New School, 79 Fifth Ave. (enter on East 16th St.; room 1618), Manhattan www.events.NewSchool.edu/event/food_of_the_gods_cacao_culture_in_central_america Free admission Screening: The American Food Disparity Thursday, February 8, 5:30-7:30 East Harlem Neighborhood Health Action Center, 158 East 115th St. (Lexington-Third... Continue reading
Posted Feb 7, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Namesakes: knife-cut, then stir-fried with lamb, egg, and bok choy; plumped with pork and scallion, then boiled. 88 Lan Zhou Handmade Noodle & Dumpling 40 Bowery (Canal-Bayard Sts.), Manhattan 646-683-0939 www.Facebook.com/88Lanzhou Continue reading
Posted Feb 5, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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In the Portuguese language, the letter "X" is pronounced much like "cheese"; appended to a Brazilian menu item, it has that meaning. On a recent visit to New York Pão de Queijo, where the menu is littered with such markings, my finger landed on the X egg burger — in... Continue reading
Posted Feb 4, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Momo on the mobile plan, or, greens to go: Steamed chive dumplings from that little Himalayan restaurant hidden behind a cell-phone store. The entrance at the street is ill-marked; when you reach the stairs that head down to the luggage store, veer right and proceed all the way to the... Continue reading
Posted Feb 3, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Ask a New Yorker where to find a good babka, and odds are they'll point you toward a cake. Perhaps it will be molded into a tall cylinder, after the fashion of Poland. Perhaps, following a style associated with Eastern European Jewish tradition, it will be braided. Almost certainly it... Continue reading
Posted Feb 2, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Most closely associated with the Mexican state of Jalisco, birria is best known as a goat soup (some call it a stew). Taqueria Coatzingo prepares its birria from beef and serves it in a bowl, as the focal point of a platter, atop tacos, and even in the archetypal sandwich... Continue reading
Posted Feb 1, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Dinners of the Past: Beefsteak Thursday, February 1, 6:30-8:30 Museum of Food and Drink, 62 Bayard St. (Lorimer-Leonard Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn www.MOFAD.org/events/2018/2/1/dinners-of-the-past-beefsteak Tickets: $65; ages 21 and over only One in a series presented by MOFAD MOCA Lunar New Year Night Market Thursday, February 1, 7:00-10:00 Museum of Chinese in... Continue reading
Posted Jan 31, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Podi idli — chunks of steamed rice-batter cakes lightly fried with curry leaves, mustard seeds, cumin, and chiles — from a casual Kumbakonam lunch, featuring the South Indian flavors of Tamil Nadu. For more photos (note the near-uniform warmth of the colors), see the EIT page on Facebook. Amma's Kitchen... Continue reading
Posted Jan 30, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Green is the most familiar color for a Turkish sarma. Savory versions of these "wrapped things" or "rolled things" are commonly filled with minced meat extended with rice, then sheathed in richly hued grape leaves or, perhaps, paler cabbage leaves. For a fistik sarma, however, the wrapper is fashioned from... Continue reading
Posted Jan 29, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Take care of your teeth today or regret it tomorrow: current, weathered sign for a [d]entist atop surviving sign for custom-made chocolates, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn Continue reading
Posted Jan 28, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Unlikely part of a healthy breakfast: While lightening the load on my creaking bookshelves, as I try to do every year, I pulled out an old Cardinal paperback (cover price, 35 cents) of Arthur C. Clarke's The Exploration of Space. In it was this trading card (c. 1959) depicting the... Continue reading
Posted Jan 27, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Noted in passing: A flyer advertising Junzi Kitchen's late-night weekend menu. A series of signs like this is posted not only at the Morningside Heights restaurant but also in the Columbia neighborhood at large, much in the manner of flyers that once promoted local college bands. Junzi Kitchen 2896 Broadway... Continue reading
Posted Jan 26, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Nine years ago I had what seemed a bright idea at the time, if a quaint thought today: Download a photo from a food blog, upload it to my mobile phone, and circumvent a language barrier to order an off-menu item. (My inspiration, three summers earlier in Xiamen, China, involved... Continue reading
Posted Jan 23, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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"Muffuletta" describes both a round, sesame-seeded Italian bread and, made from it, a New Orleans sandwich that sports various cold cuts, cheese, and a marinated olive salad. Twin Suns adds sopressata, mortadella, and provolone to a loaf whose crumb is much airier than that of the benchmark, at Central Grocery,... Continue reading
Posted Jan 22, 2018 at Eating In Translation
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Liuzhou rice noodles are native to a city of that name in the Guangxi region of southern China. The're also widely known as luosifen, literally "snail rice noodles." In China the snails — some sort of river-going mollusks — generally figure only in flavoring the broth, except, reportedly, at higher-end... Continue reading
Posted Jan 21, 2018 at Eating In Translation