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The Natural Beauty Workshop
Oxford, CT
Natural and handmade skin care expert
Interests: health, beauty, herbalism, aromatherapy, soapmaking, environmentalism, natural skin care, crafts, life, green living
Recent Activity
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Hi. You have a lot of exotic oils. Amazing selection. I am new to making soap and lotions. Would some of the exotic oils work in cold process soap making? Or are they geared for lotions etc? - Laura M.... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at The Natural Beauty Workshop
Hi Maureen. I can't speak to your specific formulation, but the ingredients most commonly used to thicken water-based formulations are starches such as Cornstarch, Oat Starch, or Arrowroot Powder. These can be mixed into water-based ingredients and heated to thicken. Depending on your formula you might also consider creating an emulsion such as a lotion or cream by including fats, waxes, and emulsifiers. You can learn about crafting an emulsion at the following link: http://tinyurl.com/qxd3hvs Vegetable Gums, like Guar or Xanthan can also be used as thickeners in some formulas. I'd suggest looking into each of these ingredients then picking a few to experiment with.
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Hi Traci. All of our Fruit Powders and Fruit Seed Powders are made from whole seeds and fruits. This means that they won't be soluble in water. Placing them in a Tea Bag is a great way to help keep them from getting too messy in the tub. In our experience, a little bit of insoluble fiber in a bath product doesn't create a major issue, but it can certainly become a problem if the Fruit Powder takes up a large portion of the recipe. I'd recommend experimenting with it a little to get a feel for the ratios that do and do not work well.
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Rich, creamy Vegetable Butters can add intense moisture to almost any kind of skin or hair care formulation. They can even be added to handmade soaps to increase their conditioning benefits. But which Butter should you choose for your next... Continue reading
Posted Mar 18, 2015 at The Natural Beauty Workshop
I don't know of any published list of essential oils that thicken or thin liquid soap, but it would be great if there was one! I'll keep an eye out during my searches online. If I see one out there I will certainly let you know.
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I'm afraid I don't have much information to offer you regarding Japanese Mud Bath Salts. From what I could find the mud used comes from a hot spring in Japan that is believed to have beneficial properties. I have not used these myself, but it sounds like the products being sold as Japanese Mud Bath Salts may be a mixture of dried mud and salt, or dried mud that already contains salt. You could probably create something similar using Dead Sea Salt and Sea Clay.
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Hi Michele. This formula doesn't contain any water or water-based ingredients so it should remain fairly stable as-is and will remain fresh as long as the ingredients hold up. It should do just fine at room temperature, though in warm weather the butter may soften or melt. In really hot weather it may help to keep it in the fridge. Shea Butter and Tamanu Oil both have an estimated shelf life of around one to two years. If you'd like to reinforce the stability of the formula, try adding 0.04% Vitamin E T50. That would work out to about two drops in this formula.
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Recently we received some questions about using plant-based milks, such as Almond Milk in place of dairy in fresh spa recipes and product formulations. While you certainly can use nutrient-rich milks made from nuts, hemp, soy, or coconut in skin... Continue reading
Posted Mar 6, 2015 at The Natural Beauty Workshop
Yes, you can definitely add Cosmetic Clays to your scrubs. Try adding a little at a time - around 1 - 3 teaspoons per cup of salt. You can add more as you go along. You may also need to add a little bit more Carrier Oil - depending on how much Clay is added. Have fun experimenting!
Toggle Commented Mar 6, 2015 on Salt Scrubs at The Natural Beauty Workshop
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Hi Lannie. Yes, you can certainly blend Honey Powder with Glycerine. If you have any other questions, please let us know!
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You can infuse almost any Carrier Oil for use in a lip balm but my favorites for making oil infusions is Coconut Oil. Both Coconut (76 Degree) and Fractionated Coconut Oil make excellent infusions for both scented and colored herbs. If you aren't happy with the results you are seeing from Beet Root Powder I would suggest experimenting with Alkanet. Some formulators prefer Alkanet over Beet Powder for color and ease of use.
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I'm so glad to hear that you are enjoying it. You can certainly add oils or butters to our Liquid Castile Base. We recommend melting the butters or solid oils and then mixing them directly into the soap base. It may also be helpful to warm the base gently using a hot water bath. The exact amount of oil/butter to be added is up to you, but 5% is a good point to begin experimenting. As far as the Aloe goes, it really depends mostly on what kind of Aloe product you are adding. If you were to add a liquid Aloe Gel it may require an additional preservative as the ratio of water will be increased. The addition of Spray Dried Aloe Powder shouldn't affect the formula's stability very much - unless the pH changes drastically. Again, I would suggest beginning your experiments at 5% and then adjusting accordingly. Aloe Vera Leaf Powder can also be added but keep in mind that the whole leaf powder will not dissolve in the soap. It would remain as solid particles which would affect the texture of the soap. If you plan on selling the soaps I would strongly recommend having your final formulations challenge tested to determine shelf life and stability.
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Hello, Readers! Mary Helen, your resident blogger here with an update on the status of my first print book, The Natural Beauty Solution. The Natural Beauty Solution is getting closer and closer to being finished. Over the past two weeks... Continue reading
Posted Feb 26, 2015 at The Natural Beauty Workshop
Hi there, Thanks for visiting The Natural Beauty Workshop. The Jojoba Esters 20 have been discontinued. At this time the only Jojoba Esters that we carry are the MP70 which can be found here: http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=OTHJOJOEST70US87 Thanks again for your message. Well certainly keep your interest in mind as we make future decisions on product selection. If we can help with anything else, please let us know. Mary Helen Leonard www.NaturalBeautyWorkshop.com www.FromNatureWithLove.com 341 Christian Street Oxford CT 06478 Tel: 203-702-2500 Fax: 203-702-2501 E-mail: Hostess@NaturalBeautyWorkshop.com Natural Beauty Workshop Readers Save an Extra 7% on their online orders at www.FromNatureWithLove.com using discount code NBWS4277!
Toggle Commented Feb 27, 2015 on Jojoba Esters at The Natural Beauty Workshop
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You're welcome, Josiah! I'm glad that we could help.
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You certainly can try experimenting with an 80% Beeswax, 20% Borax combination. I haven't tried making a lotion with that ratio yet, but I do know that Lecithin is really helpful in stabilizing the emulsion. I wouldn't recommend skipping it in general, but that doesn't mean that the emulsion won't work without it. You'll just have to give it a shot and see what happens. If you have a chance, it would be great if you could let us know how it works out for you.
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Whether you are a small business owner just starting out or a professional formulator for a national brand, the shelf life of your products is a major concern. We receive questions about this topic almost every day, and our responses... Continue reading
Posted Feb 18, 2015 at The Natural Beauty Workshop
Hi Nora. Sometimes food extracts will provide a light scent in bath fizzies, and while they are safe enough to use that way they usually don't hold up very well. Since food extracts are water soluble they can also disrupt the moisture level in the recipe which could cause your fizzies to explode prematurely or even poop out. It's best to use cosmetic-grade Fragrance Oils or skin-safe Essential Oils in your bath fizzies. You can find a great selection of both on our site at www.fromnaturewithlove.com.
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You can buy all of the ingredients for this recipe, and a wooden soap mold, thermometer, and scale at www.FromNatureWithLove.com. Use the discount code NBWS4277 to save 7% on your order. The other safety gear and supplies can be found at most grocery stores. Lye can be purchased online. Just do a web search for "where to buy lye for soap making" to find some suppliers. The ingredients in this recipe must be measured by weight. If you'd like to weigh the ingredients in metric, please convert them to grams. ML measures by volume which won't be accurate in this recipe.
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Hi Fatima. We strive to offer the best possible selection of ingredients at prices that are fair and competitive. Unfortunately the availability of natural ingredients can change unexpectedly and sometimes we are forced to stop carrying items due to changes beyond our control. I will definitely let our purchasing department know that you asked about the Egg Oil. They will keep your inquiry in mind when making future decisions about offering it again.
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Hi Kim. 3 weeks is a guideline for personal use. If you are formulating products for sale you may want to consider making changes to the formula such as changing out the preservative. Having the formulation challenge tested to determine a more accurate shelf life would also be recommended as it is the best way to accurately determine the shelf life of your finished product. More on Challenge Testing: https://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/library/testlaboratories.asp
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It's hard to believe that in more than seven years of blogging we have never shared a cold processed soap recipe on The Natural Beauty Workshop. We have some really incredible soap makers buying supplies from us and reading our... Continue reading
Posted Feb 11, 2015 at The Natural Beauty Workshop
Thanks, Tope! We love sharing creative ways to reinvent old favorites.
Toggle Commented Feb 11, 2015 on Murumuru Lotion Bars at The Natural Beauty Workshop
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Thanks! Please let us know how it turns out for you. If you take a photo we would love to see your batch.
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French Green Clay and Bentonite Clay are both recommended at around 1 tablespoon per pound in soap (as a general rule) so they should be pretty much interchangeable in recipes. The properties, color, and texture do vary a little, but either should both work well in your soap.
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