I deplore the breach of common etiquette by Prof. Feinberg. Alice, I wouldn't accost you at a table, and I would be really interested in what you have to say, in contrast to Rep. Ryan.

Great article, and I love Muscadet. On the other hand, it's rather limiting to see it recommended only with seafood. Chablis can go with lots of dishes, by contrast. Those of us in flyover country who are trying to eat sustainably don't get so much swimmy things, especially this time of year. (I'm allergic to crustaceans, which doesn't help.) What else to drink it with?

Wild yeasts are almost certainly a mixed population, with each strain occupying a specific niche. Think about sourdough or yogurt - the culture (and the properties of the product) will change over time. You can't make San Francisco sourdough in Peoria, or Greek yogurt in Houston. In fact, I would guess that much of what we call "terroir" is related to the microbial population of the area rather than soil per se.