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Kelly Cordes
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dang, was so busy mourning the mullet that i forgot to respond to these awesome comments. thanks, all! love it -- appreciate the support. i mean, in a way the mullet (or lack thereof) is more than a haircut; it's a state of mind. right up there with Whitesnake, '83 'Maros (Tom, that is *awesome* about your brother!), the Big Lebowski (the ringer cannot look empty...), mull-itos and an utter disdain for neckties.
A Good Ride
by Kelly Cordes Shadows crept across the pavement, clouds reflected stars and headlamps crawled slowly up the road, bicycles under a full moon at 12,000 feet. A month later – just last week, in fact – I parked my beater Honda and stood on the sidewalk outside of Supercuts, on my way home fr...
Absolutely great writing, Dallas, wow, thank you. Beautiful. All the best to Liz, you, your family and everyone out there. Thanks again for writing.
Best Wishes to Liz Clark
by Dallas Hyland It was a random meeting. Okay, it was kind of a random meeting. My family has been following Liz Clark’s voyage via Facebook and her website with a mixture of curiosity and inspiration. We live in the high desert of Southern Utah just outside of St. George and suffice it t...
Thanks tons for the insightful comment, Dave (and the great opening quote, of course!) -- indeed, interesting how various ways of thinking and being extend into other activities. I suppose these things transcend specific activities, and exist in all aspects of life, complete with variations and rationalizations from one activity to another within the same person. Makes me think about which things in life I care enough about to do "right" (as I would define it) and which I just don't care about.
Surely endless variations there. Perhaps an important thing is to try to be honest throughout. I suppose that's part of what I dislike about the cliches "it's just climbing" and "just for fun," because they often strike me as disingenuous. Then again, sometimes I think too much. As such, endless things to consider once I get thinking about it.
Thanks again.
Of Ideals and Actions
by Kelly Cordes Perhaps an overly dramatic title. After all, it’s just climbing, and it’s supposed to be fun. That’s the cliché, anyway. Though often a disingenuous one. Then again, part of what we love about climbing is the escape from the daily b.s. of today’s world, the immersion into a plac...
hi meg, we camped off the "old road," as it's called -- can't remember if it has a real name, or its exact location, but it's in the guidebook. it's a road that forks off of the road that goes through the canyon (hwy 16, i believe). it's very close to the climbing area, but primitive camping, bring your own water, etc. you've probably searched online, but there's a little info here: http://mountainproject.com/v/ten-sleep-canyon/105819641
photo/map showing the old road and camping here: http://aaronhuey.com/blog/?cat=197
hope this helps, have fun!
Notes from Ten Sleep
by Kelly Cordes In contrast to the mountains of Chamonix, but in a similar vein of easy access, I recently headed north to a beautiful spot in Wyoming called Ten Sleep. I took a few notes: [Approaching one of the cliffs in Ten Sleep Canyon. Photo: Kelly Cordes] • The official name is Ten Sleep...
Thanks J -- man, the no tree encounter thing was the crux for sure. Oh yeah, had Just One Fix, and Ace of Spades, both helping me out. Indeed, the competitive spirit never dies -- nor does ze metal.
Skimo in Black
by Kelly Cordes Bang. The gun went off. I was wearing a suit. First time in a couple decades or more (for the suit, not the gun). All black, like Johnny Cash. But I wasn’t robbing a train or singing the Folsom Prison Blues; I was doing a randonee ski race. Don’t think I’ve done a formal race i...
Oh yeah, the good stuff! Not that new stuff from them, where they do songs like with the "L" word or whatever... not metal. First three albums, though, just awesome [insert metal head tone of disappointment mixed with anger: "man, they sold out!"].
One of the times back in the day when I saw 'em live, I remember them doing Seek and Destroy for like 15 minutes, just going over the chorus over and over, while walking back and forth in front of the fan restraints and going "Seeeaaaarchiiiiing..." then putting the mic in front of some headbanger spilling over the metal fence and the dude would get to scream into the mic "SEEK AND DESTROY!!!"
You know that dude is still talking about it to this day. Hell, I would be. I am, even though I didn't get to sing/scream.
Skimo in Black
by Kelly Cordes Bang. The gun went off. I was wearing a suit. First time in a couple decades or more (for the suit, not the gun). All black, like Johnny Cash. But I wasn’t robbing a train or singing the Folsom Prison Blues; I was doing a randonee ski race. Don’t think I’ve done a formal race i...
Thanks so much, Phyllis! Great to hear from you, as always. Hope to see you again soon -- sorry I missed you and John recently. Next time! Take care, Kelly
Skimo in Black
by Kelly Cordes Bang. The gun went off. I was wearing a suit. First time in a couple decades or more (for the suit, not the gun). All black, like Johnny Cash. But I wasn’t robbing a train or singing the Folsom Prison Blues; I was doing a randonee ski race. Don’t think I’ve done a formal race i...
Hi Federico. Your link is to an early meeting, when tensions were very high. I believe Seba was talking about now, currently (which, actually, is clear as you quote him). Perhaps feelings change with time. I suspect Seba, as one of Argentina’s greatest climbers and with many great ascents in Patagonia, might have a decent idea of the current situation there.
This brings up interesting questions, though, given that some of the most devoted Patagonia climbers were not in attendance – as you acknowledge with Rolo, for example. Whether or not you agree with his opinion on the Compressor Route, Rolo has surely done more for climbing in the Chalten area than anybody, researching and documenting the climbing with incredible depth (he’s unquestionably the world expert on its climbing history), freely providing information that all climbers rely on, devoting countless hours to trails projects, fighting proposed regulations, etc.
Whether or not it matters if one is personally devoted to the land and climbing, and who is “local” to Patagonia climbing (with El Chalten being such a seasonal town), and who gets to “vote” (if anyone) -- these are certainly interesting questions. I’m just suggesting that if there’s an assembly about a climbing route, but many of the most devoted Patagonia climbers in history are not in attendance, well, it raises these questions.
Conversely, I’m sure you have also seen the list of people in support of the CR bolts removal – here’s a link: http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2012/02/cerro-torre-petition
These are people whose climbs have made much of Patagonia’s climbing history, and who have poured themselves and their energy into the place. Interesting topics for another discussion, but I thought it was important to point out these things. Thanks.
Cerro Torre: Deviations from Reason
by Kelly Cordes Late afternoon January 16, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk sat on the summit of Cerro Torre, making a decision. Backup. For starters, let’s be clear: None of us has an inalienable right to summit anything. If you aren’t capable of climbing a peak after a manmade path has been remo...
loved it, craig. such great stories, glimpses from moments so many of us can relate to, even if we aren't ultra runners. what a treat. would love to hear about how and why you shifted away from running -- fascinating how we make these twists and turns in life. anyway, thanks.
Time On His Feet – A Former Runner Looks Back
by Craig Holloway I ran my last ultra on a warm, spring day in Wisconsin five years ago. The course was surprisingly tough – small roller coaster hills come at you like black flies. Crossing the finish line I didn’t feel the exhilaration that I normally do after a race. I chalked it up to bur...
Man, that's such great info -- thank you, Steve. Not only incredible stuff to marvel at from an adventure perspective (boggles my mind -- so inspiring), but awesome with the tie to the NCNP. Have any articles or further stories about that? Would be fascinating to read. Thanks again.
Stories and the Lost Coast
by Kelly Cordes Wolf, bear, human – in August 2010 Cameron Lawson and Brett DeWoody took a wild, 350-mile bicycle and packraft journey from Yukutat to Cordova, along Alaska's "Lost Coast," following bear and wolf tracks, navigating heinous brush and swollen river deltas, engaging in true wilder...
yes, sus, he is! ahhh, and why does this man yell? it's an intense story behind the art. gets me thinking...post upcoming, perhaps. thanks!
The No Resolution Resolution
by Kelly Cordes “What’s your New Year’s Resolution?” folks ask. They don’t really ask me, though, because I’m wary of holiday parties (depends on how much booze is there) and go, Huh? Is that like a “five-year plan” or whatever? I heard a person recently talking about how ten is the new five, or...
thanks folks, and happy goal-free 2012 (or, at least, keep 'em low enough that you'll achieve them). i'm blushing from behind my keyboard about the mullet comments. i'd never thought of myself as the hair-model type, but, well, geez, i guess everyone has their time to shine. and fred, totally am planning on that -- not shaving the lemmy-lamb-chops from here until the motorhead concert in late feb (it takes me that long). pretty psyched for that. i think it's a goal i can achieve (at least making it to the concert, that is; the lamb chops might be a bit ambitious, but we'll see).
The No Resolution Resolution
by Kelly Cordes “What’s your New Year’s Resolution?” folks ask. They don’t really ask me, though, because I’m wary of holiday parties (depends on how much booze is there) and go, Huh? Is that like a “five-year plan” or whatever? I heard a person recently talking about how ten is the new five, or...
doh! dang, similar stuff. can't remember off hand if mine was a slap or bankart(sp?) or both -- most of the labrum was detached and flopping (in addition to rotator cuff down to a few spindles and big tears in the joint capsule). ahhh, the joys of being a mess, no? but indeed, harrison, good luck to us both! keep at it.
The No Resolution Resolution
by Kelly Cordes “What’s your New Year’s Resolution?” folks ask. They don’t really ask me, though, because I’m wary of holiday parties (depends on how much booze is there) and go, Huh? Is that like a “five-year plan” or whatever? I heard a person recently talking about how ten is the new five, or...
awesome, dave. man, inspires me to hear this. i get glimpses of it now and then, increasingly so, i think (i hope). it's hard to feel confident of it sometimes since the future doesn't exist yet, but then to hear good stories of people getting it back makes me smile. yes.
The No Resolution Resolution
by Kelly Cordes “What’s your New Year’s Resolution?” folks ask. They don’t really ask me, though, because I’m wary of holiday parties (depends on how much booze is there) and go, Huh? Is that like a “five-year plan” or whatever? I heard a person recently talking about how ten is the new five, or...
thanks, dallas, and you're on mine. preferably a "hyland stout" sometime! good stuff. hope you're doing well, and happy new year.
Lines of Eleven
by Kelly Cordes Note: On this blog in 2011 I wrote over 30,000 words in 40 original blog posts (to TCL readers, I apologize for the resultant drop in your IQ). I also edited and introduced another seven posts from other authors, and wrote a little on my personal blog (where I put my inappropri...
man, i can fully relate the the trial-and-error (mostly error) method of learning. and, hopefully but debatably, now being smarter. but life is a journey -- who said that? wait, i think it was the dalai lama himself.
Old Young Friends
by Kelly Cordes Mid-morning it hit me for the millionth time: this is ridiculous. Only, at this point in my life I rarely think of it as ridiculous-stupid. More like, ridiculous-ok-fine-so-what, with a chuckle-twist on the side. It was my inaugural day of taking the tools for a walk, 2011, and m...
yeah, dang, now i remember your telling me about that -- pretty cool to think back on things, huh. also, reminds us (especially you, cfs) how old we're getting! ah, those whipper snappers...indeed, gimps like us need these young folks to put the rope up for us. superstars!
Old Young Friends
by Kelly Cordes Mid-morning it hit me for the millionth time: this is ridiculous. Only, at this point in my life I rarely think of it as ridiculous-stupid. More like, ridiculous-ok-fine-so-what, with a chuckle-twist on the side. It was my inaugural day of taking the tools for a walk, 2011, and m...
thanks a bunch, zach (and sorry for my delay). appreciate the good words. hope your 2012 is rockin', and that you're staying warm. take care, kelly
Old Young Friends
by Kelly Cordes Mid-morning it hit me for the millionth time: this is ridiculous. Only, at this point in my life I rarely think of it as ridiculous-stupid. More like, ridiculous-ok-fine-so-what, with a chuckle-twist on the side. It was my inaugural day of taking the tools for a walk, 2011, and m...
What a beautiful post, Liz. Profound words about a wonderful person. "I will spread the word by not spreading the word, but by being the example that Mike was (and is) for me. ... We are all in different stages of knowing our place in this universe and everyone’s path is different. "
Thank you.
My Footprint series - A Word on Spreading the Word
Series intro: Today's citizen is engaged, concerned, and most of all, confident; confident in his or her choice as a consumer, confident in his or her power as an employee, confident that change is possible. The Footprint Chronicles were developed to document the changes we’re making as a compan...
Hey Guy, I'm not sure if Hayden and Jason are around right now or not, but here's a photo of the face with the existing lines and the line of their attempt. Here's a link: http://blog.jasonkruk.net/2011/07/north-twin.html
Hope this helps!
Getting Satisfaction on the North Face of North Twin
by Hayden Kennedy Today's post comes to us from Hayden Kennedy about a climb he recently attempted with Jason Kruk. Anyone who’s paying attention these days is blown away by the progression. The talented youth just keep getting after it, and it’s not just in cragging and bouldering. The serious ...
hi derrick,
in addition to the superb story in this thread, above, by michael kennedy (one of my favorite articles about mugs stump), some other short pieces appear at http://www.mugsstumpaward.com/about.html
there has not been a book about stump, though in a similar vein (stories of alaskan climbing), you might like the book "Alaskan Ascents," edited by Bill Sherwonit. it's a compilation of stories by climbers from some of the great Alaskan climbs.
one of the stories in that book can also be found online here (pdf download):
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1982/01_bridwell_moose_aaj1982.pdf#search=%22bridwell%20stump%20moose%20east%20face%22
-it's by the great Jim Bridwell, about his and Mugs Stumps's historic and mega badass first ascent of the east face of the Moose's Tooth. awesome story, i think.
hope this helps!
The Dream - A Journey of the Spirit with Mugs Stump
Editor's note: Exactly two years ago The Cleanest Line was born, and today we have a post that embodies two of the reasons why we started blogging: to share inspiring stories and pertinent news. The recipients of the 2009 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Ouray Ice Festival in mid-January...
Right-on, thanks for the good words, folks. I dunno, Dave, I was so psyched that even the Nihilists ("well, say what you will about the tenets of national socialism -- at least it's an ethos!") couldn't get to me. Even with the marmot!
It's a sweet mullet, huh Luciano? ("Yes, yes, it's great!") I figure I gotta get ready for my return to Patagonia. Though I do think I'll draw the line at the rasta mullet. I mean, a guy's gotta have standards. (And thanks for the support on the mullet, Uri!)
Postcards from Chamonix: Sleep Finale
by Kelly Cordes Ahhh, sleep. Sweet sleep. I drifted off to the soothing sounds of a jackhammer. They’re doing construction at the Torino Hut. 24-7 construction. I’ve long thought of loading my music player with tracks of peaceful sounds like waves gently crashing, the pitter-patter of rain, or...
Had me chuckling the whole time, BAG -- great post. And after hanging with you and JT in Cham, I can't stop thinking about how you two really do need your own reality show. Nonstop entertainment -- Has me laughing just thinking about it. If I could somehow capture it in words, I would. But I suppose some things need to be experienced in person!
The 48-Hour Dress
by Brittany Griffith As the sun heated up our little apartment, I drifted out of my dream and awoke to a bizarre scene: people sprawled all over the floor, futon and tiny twin beds…I could hear chatter in half a dozen languages, clinking plates and glasses… the faint smell of tobacco, espresso a...
heyhey, Rob, sorry it seems I missed you guys -- or are you around next week? if so, come on up for a marg!
agreed, i've got a lot to catch-up on, and a couple weeks in Cham is definitely just a tease. but i've also got Pakistan later this summer, and some rock climbing to do in the Park. ahhhh, so many places, so little time... (anyone remember the great movie Raising Arizona? "so many convenience stores, so little time...").
hope you've been having a blast with your travels.
Postcard from Chamonix: Access
by Kelly Cordes I’m in Chamonix, France, for a couple of weeks. Weather started bad on the Mont Blanc massif, so we drove through the tunnel and climbed sunny rock in Italy. An 800-foot roadside dome with 40 routes, all bolted. The bolts weren’t too close, nor were they beside cracks. The routes...
thanks so much, uri. yeah, body is feeling great. i'm so psyched. still a little nervous, but going really really well.
no doubt, agree with you on all fronts. some terrific things about europe. great things back home as well, and the differences add appreciation and perspective and makes life sweeter. good stuff.
Postcard from Chamonix: Access
by Kelly Cordes I’m in Chamonix, France, for a couple of weeks. Weather started bad on the Mont Blanc massif, so we drove through the tunnel and climbed sunny rock in Italy. An 800-foot roadside dome with 40 routes, all bolted. The bolts weren’t too close, nor were they beside cracks. The routes...
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