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Kelly Cordes
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Thank you for the good words, Dallas, and I'll look forward to that in-person thing. Over a marg, of course!
dang, was so busy mourning the mullet that i forgot to respond to these awesome comments. thanks, all! love it -- appreciate the support. i mean, in a way the mullet (or lack thereof) is more than a haircut; it's a state of mind. right up there with Whitesnake, '83 'Maros (Tom, that is *awesome* about your brother!), the Big Lebowski (the ringer cannot look empty...), mull-itos and an utter disdain for neckties.
Toggle Commented Dec 26, 2012 on A Good Ride at The Cleanest Line
Absolutely great writing, Dallas, wow, thank you. Beautiful. All the best to Liz, you, your family and everyone out there. Thanks again for writing.
Toggle Commented Nov 12, 2012 on Best Wishes to Liz Clark at The Cleanest Line
Thanks tons for the insightful comment, Dave (and the great opening quote, of course!) -- indeed, interesting how various ways of thinking and being extend into other activities. I suppose these things transcend specific activities, and exist in all aspects of life, complete with variations and rationalizations from one activity to another within the same person. Makes me think about which things in life I care enough about to do "right" (as I would define it) and which I just don't care about. Surely endless variations there. Perhaps an important thing is to try to be honest throughout. I suppose that's part of what I dislike about the cliches "it's just climbing" and "just for fun," because they often strike me as disingenuous. Then again, sometimes I think too much. As such, endless things to consider once I get thinking about it. Thanks again.
Toggle Commented Aug 30, 2012 on Of Ideals and Actions at The Cleanest Line
hi meg, we camped off the "old road," as it's called -- can't remember if it has a real name, or its exact location, but it's in the guidebook. it's a road that forks off of the road that goes through the canyon (hwy 16, i believe). it's very close to the climbing area, but primitive camping, bring your own water, etc. you've probably searched online, but there's a little info here: photo/map showing the old road and camping here: hope this helps, have fun!
Toggle Commented May 7, 2012 on Notes from Ten Sleep at The Cleanest Line
Thanks J -- man, the no tree encounter thing was the crux for sure. Oh yeah, had Just One Fix, and Ace of Spades, both helping me out. Indeed, the competitive spirit never dies -- nor does ze metal.
Toggle Commented Apr 3, 2012 on Skimo in Black at The Cleanest Line
Oh yeah, the good stuff! Not that new stuff from them, where they do songs like with the "L" word or whatever... not metal. First three albums, though, just awesome [insert metal head tone of disappointment mixed with anger: "man, they sold out!"]. One of the times back in the day when I saw 'em live, I remember them doing Seek and Destroy for like 15 minutes, just going over the chorus over and over, while walking back and forth in front of the fan restraints and going "Seeeaaaarchiiiiing..." then putting the mic in front of some headbanger spilling over the metal fence and the dude would get to scream into the mic "SEEK AND DESTROY!!!" You know that dude is still talking about it to this day. Hell, I would be. I am, even though I didn't get to sing/scream.
Toggle Commented Apr 3, 2012 on Skimo in Black at The Cleanest Line
Thanks so much, Phyllis! Great to hear from you, as always. Hope to see you again soon -- sorry I missed you and John recently. Next time! Take care, Kelly
Toggle Commented Apr 3, 2012 on Skimo in Black at The Cleanest Line
Hi Federico. Your link is to an early meeting, when tensions were very high. I believe Seba was talking about now, currently (which, actually, is clear as you quote him). Perhaps feelings change with time. I suspect Seba, as one of Argentina’s greatest climbers and with many great ascents in Patagonia, might have a decent idea of the current situation there. This brings up interesting questions, though, given that some of the most devoted Patagonia climbers were not in attendance – as you acknowledge with Rolo, for example. Whether or not you agree with his opinion on the Compressor Route, Rolo has surely done more for climbing in the Chalten area than anybody, researching and documenting the climbing with incredible depth (he’s unquestionably the world expert on its climbing history), freely providing information that all climbers rely on, devoting countless hours to trails projects, fighting proposed regulations, etc. Whether or not it matters if one is personally devoted to the land and climbing, and who is “local” to Patagonia climbing (with El Chalten being such a seasonal town), and who gets to “vote” (if anyone) -- these are certainly interesting questions. I’m just suggesting that if there’s an assembly about a climbing route, but many of the most devoted Patagonia climbers in history are not in attendance, well, it raises these questions. Conversely, I’m sure you have also seen the list of people in support of the CR bolts removal – here’s a link: These are people whose climbs have made much of Patagonia’s climbing history, and who have poured themselves and their energy into the place. Interesting topics for another discussion, but I thought it was important to point out these things. Thanks.
loved it, craig. such great stories, glimpses from moments so many of us can relate to, even if we aren't ultra runners. what a treat. would love to hear about how and why you shifted away from running -- fascinating how we make these twists and turns in life. anyway, thanks.
Man, that's such great info -- thank you, Steve. Not only incredible stuff to marvel at from an adventure perspective (boggles my mind -- so inspiring), but awesome with the tie to the NCNP. Have any articles or further stories about that? Would be fascinating to read. Thanks again.
Toggle Commented Jan 21, 2012 on Stories and the Lost Coast at The Cleanest Line
yes, sus, he is! ahhh, and why does this man yell? it's an intense story behind the art. gets me upcoming, perhaps. thanks!
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on The No Resolution Resolution at The Cleanest Line
thanks folks, and happy goal-free 2012 (or, at least, keep 'em low enough that you'll achieve them). i'm blushing from behind my keyboard about the mullet comments. i'd never thought of myself as the hair-model type, but, well, geez, i guess everyone has their time to shine. and fred, totally am planning on that -- not shaving the lemmy-lamb-chops from here until the motorhead concert in late feb (it takes me that long). pretty psyched for that. i think it's a goal i can achieve (at least making it to the concert, that is; the lamb chops might be a bit ambitious, but we'll see).
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on The No Resolution Resolution at The Cleanest Line
doh! dang, similar stuff. can't remember off hand if mine was a slap or bankart(sp?) or both -- most of the labrum was detached and flopping (in addition to rotator cuff down to a few spindles and big tears in the joint capsule). ahhh, the joys of being a mess, no? but indeed, harrison, good luck to us both! keep at it.
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on The No Resolution Resolution at The Cleanest Line
awesome, dave. man, inspires me to hear this. i get glimpses of it now and then, increasingly so, i think (i hope). it's hard to feel confident of it sometimes since the future doesn't exist yet, but then to hear good stories of people getting it back makes me smile. yes.
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on The No Resolution Resolution at The Cleanest Line
thanks, dallas, and you're on mine. preferably a "hyland stout" sometime! good stuff. hope you're doing well, and happy new year.
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on Lines of Eleven at The Cleanest Line
man, i can fully relate the the trial-and-error (mostly error) method of learning. and, hopefully but debatably, now being smarter. but life is a journey -- who said that? wait, i think it was the dalai lama himself.
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on Old Young Friends at The Cleanest Line
yeah, dang, now i remember your telling me about that -- pretty cool to think back on things, huh. also, reminds us (especially you, cfs) how old we're getting! ah, those whipper snappers...indeed, gimps like us need these young folks to put the rope up for us. superstars!
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on Old Young Friends at The Cleanest Line
thanks a bunch, zach (and sorry for my delay). appreciate the good words. hope your 2012 is rockin', and that you're staying warm. take care, kelly
Toggle Commented Jan 16, 2012 on Old Young Friends at The Cleanest Line
What a beautiful post, Liz. Profound words about a wonderful person. "I will spread the word by not spreading the word, but by being the example that Mike was (and is) for me. ... We are all in different stages of knowing our place in this universe and everyone’s path is different. " Thank you.
Hey Guy, I'm not sure if Hayden and Jason are around right now or not, but here's a photo of the face with the existing lines and the line of their attempt. Here's a link: Hope this helps!
hi derrick, in addition to the superb story in this thread, above, by michael kennedy (one of my favorite articles about mugs stump), some other short pieces appear at there has not been a book about stump, though in a similar vein (stories of alaskan climbing), you might like the book "Alaskan Ascents," edited by Bill Sherwonit. it's a compilation of stories by climbers from some of the great Alaskan climbs. one of the stories in that book can also be found online here (pdf download): -it's by the great Jim Bridwell, about his and Mugs Stumps's historic and mega badass first ascent of the east face of the Moose's Tooth. awesome story, i think. hope this helps!
Right-on, thanks for the good words, folks. I dunno, Dave, I was so psyched that even the Nihilists ("well, say what you will about the tenets of national socialism -- at least it's an ethos!") couldn't get to me. Even with the marmot! It's a sweet mullet, huh Luciano? ("Yes, yes, it's great!") I figure I gotta get ready for my return to Patagonia. Though I do think I'll draw the line at the rasta mullet. I mean, a guy's gotta have standards. (And thanks for the support on the mullet, Uri!)
Had me chuckling the whole time, BAG -- great post. And after hanging with you and JT in Cham, I can't stop thinking about how you two really do need your own reality show. Nonstop entertainment -- Has me laughing just thinking about it. If I could somehow capture it in words, I would. But I suppose some things need to be experienced in person!
Toggle Commented Jul 15, 2011 on The 48-Hour Dress at The Cleanest Line
heyhey, Rob, sorry it seems I missed you guys -- or are you around next week? if so, come on up for a marg! agreed, i've got a lot to catch-up on, and a couple weeks in Cham is definitely just a tease. but i've also got Pakistan later this summer, and some rock climbing to do in the Park. ahhhh, so many places, so little time... (anyone remember the great movie Raising Arizona? "so many convenience stores, so little time..."). hope you've been having a blast with your travels.