@ Anglo Your nerd rage is hilarious. It's called dual boot try it some time. http://www.linuxbsdos.com/2012/05/17/how-to-dual-boot-ubuntu-12-04-and-windows-7/ sudo go make me a sammich

Yeah, that wasn't cheap. o_0

@ Ross Try not to be such a knob. Kryptonite hasn't used those keys for nearly a decade. You're the kind of guy who'd bad mouth Ford because of the Pinto.

You had me going until the fixies only part. April Fools

@ Carl I still don't care. The first photo blows your "exponentially tougher for a thief to get the lock into a position where it can be hack-sawed " theory out of the water. Nice and flat and, as a bonus, well supported by that properly tensioned fixie chain.

@ Scott Depends on how good the bar tape looks. Personally I think the hose is a better idea as it won't retain moisture as readily as most bar tapes. The lock is steel after all.

@ Ms Nothing. "so by pulling the chain you can sharpen the pencil again" Read the post.

Didn't realize graphite caused brain damage. ;P

Sheldon Brown wrote an article that pretty much solved the issue for me, though the loop side velcro strips I placed on the frame in the rub zone years ago remain to this day. -------------------------------- "Criss-Cross" Cables Most bicycles with handlebar-mounted shifters run the rear cable on the right, the front on the left. This causes some awkwardness in routing the length of housing from the shift lever to the frame stops. Due to the need to allow these housings to be long enough to permit the bars to be turned all the way back and forth, the housings often wind up making a reverse bend--for instance, the rear will go from the shifter, which is on the right, swing forward and cross over past the centerline of the bicycle, then back over to the right side of the headtube, before heading down the down tube. These extra bends increase friction, and the fairly forcible contact between the housing and the side of the headtube can damage the finish. A neat solution to this is to run the cables "criss-cross" style: The rear runs from the lever, (on the right) around the headtube, and to the cable stop on the left side of the downtube! The front cable crosses over similarly from the left side of the handlebar to the right side of the down tube. The bare cables then cross one another under the middle of the downtube, making an "X". The cables may touch where they cross, but they will do so very lightly, since they are both straight...the tiny bit of friction at this crossing is more than offset by the reduction in friction in the smoother-flowing cable housings. This technique does not work with over-the-bottom-bracket cable routing, but is doable with most newer bikes that have under-the-bottom-bracket cable routing and cable stops mounted toward the bottom side of the down tube. ------------------------------------

fore·shad·ow (fôr-shd, fr-) tr.v. fore·shad·owed, fore·shad·ow·ing, fore·shad·ows To present an indication or a suggestion of beforehand; presage. Not really "f0reshadowing" when you specifically tell us you're doing it. ;P

There's also the tried and true length of bike chain with a inner tube wrapper for ultimate hack and reuse points. Also Matt, tell me that lock is actually around the seat stays and NOT just the ridiculously easily unbolted rack supports.

@ Troy / Kimberly It's not cut-proof by any measure. It lasted about ONE MINUTE longer than a $15 piece of Wally-World garbage

While I do see the merits of Titanium as a material in most applications I don't see them here. This guy is comparing a $200 piece of titanium to a $15 Bell lock and it's not really that impressive even compared to that cheap Wally World crap. When he compares it to a Kryptonite Evo or New York Series (or comparable lock that cost around half what this thing does) I'd at least be curious to see the results.

Cars that beep Peds that yell I'm quite cheap How about a bell? It would go perfectly with my old Varsity commuter with it's 1" threaded steerer.

Except for the fact that those racks are generally only rated for 20 lbs.

Cheap abused fork already highly roached No harm done here. That said there's no way in this universe I'd advise someone to do this with a decent or workable fork as this will DEFINITELY DAMAGE THE FORK.

Decent tires can be had fairly cheaply (ie CST Ciudad) medical bills are far more expensive.

Props for the design, but Whole Foods takes #5 for Preserve who uses it to make recyclable toothbrushes etc. http://www.preserveproducts.com/recycling/gimme5locations.html

Holy Water Retention Batman! Slow drying yarn + water + 70's bike boom era Hi-ten steel cruiser + big pile of rust in a hurry!

Two Words to explain why this is a massive fail: Universal Keys

@ S They're not "small" unless of course you consider 4 gallons a "sip". If you have the means to heat weld large pieces of folded coroplast properly, by all means make your own, just be sure to post your results. *rolls eyes* The Donkey Boxx is, in essence, a mail tote with a lid (The supplier makes totes for the USPS) complete with the wire reinforcement and they're every bit as durable. Sure, I suppose you could steal a mail tote, but they tend not to like that given the "Use by non-postal employees is subject to possible fine and imprisonment" warning. And yes, $28 - the same price as the cat litter pail Bike Buckets WITHOUT hardware.

Geez, That's a lot of damn duct tape. Leave it to Kent to fab something out of yard signs. It should be a bumper crop for him later this year. I, on the other hand, went with a set of Donkey Boxxes http://www.donkeyboxx.com/index.php/default/shop/donkey-boxx-bicycle-pannier/ When I went looking for a first set of panniers I had a few criteria in mind. Not outrageously priced Not a cat litter container (long story - trust me you don't care) Recycled & recyclable Waterproof(able) I also preferred that they be made in the USA The Boxxes hit all of these points for and as a bonus they're made by disabled folks in the region I grew up in.

Very similar to a project detailed in the new Bicycle Times

UPDATE: Massbike has changed the link to the bike law page. This is the new link: http://www.massbike.org/resourcesnew/bike-law/state-bike-laws/

@ Leo Horishny Attaching reflective tape to the sidewall of a tire would be a mistake of EPIC proportions. The sidewall of a tire flexes way too much in use to make a tape application viable. Tape such as this must be applied to a rigid surface like a rim or frame. I encourage to to look at the several brands of tires on the market that have a reflective strip on their sidewalls.