Hello Dugg, Yep, everybody seems to do different things and have different prices for overhauls, complete tunes, ultimate tunes, etc... It can be confusing to the customers as to what they are actually paying for. I charge more if I'm replacing cables and housing sections. Thanks for your comment! -John

Hello again Pierre! Herein lies the problem! Some crankset designs work better than others with the press fit BB's. I've gotten reports of some bad cup movement with the UT press fit cups... I do not like to make the assumption that the Bottom bracket is round and square... they want us to just trust that they are. Did you see the post I did about the Cervelo R5 with the BBright pressfit bottom bracket? If not, you might enjoy checking it out. Thanks again for writing! -John

Hello Pierre, I hope that this message finds you well and thank you for your comments! It just so happens that I just posted a video here on my site showing step by step how I install the shims. You might want to take a look at it... warning, it's not fancy! I'm a bike mechanic and not a video producer! Anyways, regarding splitting the shims between the DS and the NDS, I found that it really not necessary because the amount of shims rarely is more than 3mm. I agree that the UT is nice, but the inability to account for shell width differences is a substantial flaw in the design. Fortunately, if installed properly, I've seen very good results using the shims. Thanks again for writing and for your kind words! -John

Hello Martin, I hope that all is well on your end. I haven't had the opportunity to test this shim application with Powertorque design just yet though I plan to as soon as I get a chance because I've heard of folks with Power Torque having similar issues as those with UT... I'll post any further info on a fix for PT here and/or on Twitter. Thanks for writing! -John

Hello Jeroen, I hope that this finds you well. The short answer is that with threaded bottom brackets, the shim kit is still the best solution. If you take your time and do the installation right I think that you will be satisfied with the result...a smooth spinning noise-free UT system. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for writing. -John

Hello Sean, I hope that this message finds you well and I am sorry that you are having this issue with your UT. One way to narrow it down to the crankset/bottom bracket is to have your mechanic install a FSA crankset (only if you do not have to buy it...) and you ride it and see if the usual noise is still there. If it is, then it's probably safe to say that it's something other than the UT. If the noise is gone, then the opposite is probably true... If your mechanic is still hesitant to remove the wave washer and install the shims, well then maybe you need to find another mechanic that is more open minded to finding a solution to your problem. I hope that this info helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for writing! -John

Thanks for your comments Ken. Bringing this to light sure hit a nerve or two...I'm just glad that I can help those who are experiencing this issue. I would just like Campagnolo to step up and make it right....that would be nice. -John

Steven, thank you for writing and thank you for your kind words. I actually used your comment in my latest post. Sorry that you have to deal with this issue. Let me know if there is anything that I can do to help. -John

Hello Nuno, I hope that all is well with you. Regarding your question about using a road hub for your Crossmax wheel, I highly doubt that it would work. You might try to contact Mavic to make sure. You might also want to ask them if they have a replacement hub for your Crossmax wheel. I hope that this info helps. Thanks for writing! -John

Hello Peter, Thank you for your comment. I'm sure that you have more experience than I do with this. What flavor is that kool-aid?