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Ruth Reichl
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Those old copies of Gourmet are becoming increasingly appealing now that Conde Nast seems to have taken gourmet.com - and all the old articles it contained - down. Reading through those back issues is kind of like going back in time; an edible history of America.
Toggle Commented yesterday on Another Intriguing Recipe at Ruth Reichl
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A Taste of the Past Been perusing old cookbooks this morning, just for the sheer pleasure of it. I came upon this recipe, that I have to try soon, before the snow melts and it's too warm for filling food. But to me Onion Custard looks like a wonderful substitute for Creamed Onions, which always drive me crazy; peeling onions... Continue reading
Posted 2 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Alexis I was SO sorry not to be there. Snowstorm, if you can believe it, up here. But I am going to do my best to get there next year. I will never forget some of those sessions. Suzanne Goin and Gabrielle Hamilton talking about motherhood and running restaurants was so honest, and so inspiring.
Toggle Commented 3 days ago on The Cherry Bombe Jubilee at Ruth Reichl
Nancy Silverton's Pan Cotto This is another crazy recipe Nancy asked me to test for her. It's a vegetable dish she discovered in a restaurant in Italy, and she plans to include it in her forthcoming cookbook. Knowing Nancy, who never stops tweaking recipes, it will be considerably changed by then. But this version, which I made for friends last... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Ruth Reichl
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People have been fermenting fruit into alcohol since the beginning of civilization. It follows, then, that old alcohol - vinegar - has been a staple of our diet for at least as long. The Mesopotamians made vinegar from dates, the Romans made vinegar from grapes, and from China to Greece, nearly every other kind of fruit has been discovered in... Continue reading
Posted 6 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Last year's Jubilee was completely fascinating - one of the best conferences of its type I've ever attended. This year's sounds equally interesting. It takes place this Sunday. The Day’s Schedule 9:30 – 10:30 am: Breakfast and Registration 10:30 am – 12:30 pm: Session 1 Welcome by Kerry Diamond and Claudia Wu Truly Share a Meal with Lauren Bush Lauren... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Thanks Alley. Actually, I've known the Cowgirl women forever - met Peggy when she was working at Chez Panisse. And in that vein, one of the early Cowgirl people was Kate Arding, who's just opened a terrific cheese, takeout, food shop in Hudson NY with her partner Mona Talbott. Mona cooked at Chez Panisse, and then set up the fantastic kitchen at the American Academy in Rome. They're both wonderful, as is their shop, Talbott and Arding. (I'm not associated with them either; just grateful that they've moved into my neighborhood.)
Toggle Commented 7 days ago on Say Cheese! at Ruth Reichl
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Took a fascinating cheese class last night with Matt Rubiner, of Rubiner's Cheese in Great Barrington. I don't think I've ever eaten so much cheese. And I learned a lot. This class was a romp up Route 7 from Monterey, Massachussetts (Rawson Brook Farm), to Highgate, Vermont (Boucher Farm). Matt says this is now the densest cheese route in America,... Continue reading
Posted Mar 25, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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I was reading through Laurie Colwin's More Home Cooking yesterday, when I came upon this cake. I've been looking for an alternative to Angel Food Cake - which has virtually no fat - and this one seemed possible. It has no butter and no eggs, and requires only a half cup of oil and a cup of buttermilk. Then I... Continue reading
Posted Mar 24, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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This is Kyle Knall, the chef at Maysville in New York. Last night he and BBQ Pitmaster John Markus cooked dinner for a small group at John's upstate house. It was a wonderful meal in every way, but the biggest surprise was that these meatcentric men, who spent all day grilling and smoking in a wicked wind, included so many... Continue reading
Posted Mar 23, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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Rice Waffles There is nothing as luxurious as a really great waffle. On this snowy morning the knowledge that a big bowl of waffle batter was slowly puffing itself up in the kitchen propelled me right out of bed. I'm a longtime fan of Fannie Farmer's classic yeast waffle recipe, which I first encountered in Marion Cunningham's wonderful The Breakfast... Continue reading
Posted Mar 22, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Les Epinards du Chanoine Chevrier as recounted by Elizabeth David in Mediterranean Food “...Brillat-Savarin was intrigued by this spinach cooked in butter. Here is the famous secret. On Wednesday (for Sunday): choose your spinach, young leaves, neither too old nor in flower, of a good green with their middle ribs. In the afternoon clean the spinach, removing the stalks, and... Continue reading
Posted Mar 20, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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The room has been transformed, the walls obscured by "row cover," the fabric farmers use to protect their crops. The tables are also new in every sense of the word; they were grown in February with compostable materials and mycelium. The result is cozy and warm, a bit like eating in a cocoon. And the menu, it's safe to say,... Continue reading
Posted Mar 18, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Have you read Dan Barber’s book The Third Plate? It’s the critical text for this moment in food. I recommend it to everyone. In it, Dan argues that if we’re serious about a sustainable food culture, our understanding of “good food” must evolve to include the leftover bits: the stems, the bones, the wheys. Brilliantly, he shows how reconsidering garbage... Continue reading
Posted Mar 17, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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So beautiful here! The sky is blue, mountains ring the city, and all around us the cactus are in bloom, spreading a surprising carpet of yellow, pink and red. The air sparkles. "What do I eat in Tucson?" I asked friends. And the universal answer was this: Go to the Anita Street Market and order a red chile burrito. The... Continue reading
Posted Mar 16, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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Two decades ago, concerns about overfishing and all the problems with farmed fish felt abstract. We didn’t expect most chefs to source seafood locally. We generally had no clue where the fish in the market came from. And we were buying terrible shrimp without even knowing it. But the tide is shifting. Though the word “sustainable” has obscured the human... Continue reading
Posted Mar 14, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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A Fantastic Way to Clean Copper See this pot? I wish I'd taken a before photo. Fifteen minutes ago it was covered with a patina of grime. Now, however, thanks to an old book called Queen of Clean, it is shiny and proud. What is the secret? A paste made of catsup and Worcestershire sauce. Really! You mix the two... Continue reading
Posted Mar 5, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
According to the Dandelion website, you can buy their chocolate at Bean Link in Toronto. Hope you like it as much as I do!
Toggle Commented Mar 5, 2015 on Things I Love: Dandelion Chocolate at Ruth Reichl
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Here's another bean-to-bar outfit I can’t resist: Dandelion Chocolate, made in San Francisco. Like Askinosie, Dandelion seeks out small-yield cacao producers and treats them fairly. Then they test the beans, intent on coaxing the most flavor out of each one by using different roasting methods. Finally they grind and "melange" the chocolate, adding a bit of sugar. Dandelion chocolate contains... Continue reading
Posted Mar 4, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Daphne: Yes! Love Petit Trois. As for MIchael and Alma.... "love" would be too strong. But he really liked the food - and the atmosphere.
Toggle Commented Mar 2, 2015 on My Dinner at Alma at Ruth Reichl
Totally agree about the pix. They're too dark. But I hate what flash does to food. And I also kind of hate spending so much time at dinner taking pictures, so I pretty much do it on the fly. Sorry....
Toggle Commented Mar 2, 2015 on My Dinner at Alma at Ruth Reichl
Hi Karen, My final LA dinner was a review meal with Jonathan Gold in Baldwin Hills. It was great - and you'll read about it. But not here.....
Toggle Commented Mar 2, 2015 on Penultimate Meal in LA at Ruth Reichl
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"Here?" said the Uber driver. "You sure?" From the outside N/Naka does not look like a restaurant. It's just another nondescript building on a nondescript stretch of Overland Avenue in a nondescript section of West L.A. Inside, however, is one of the most luxurious restaurants in the city, a simple but serene setting where some twenty lucky people are treated... Continue reading
Posted Feb 28, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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When we pulled up for dinner at Alma last night, I went to park the car in the lot next door. Meanwhile Michael sat on a bench outside, having a chat with a man who hit him up for enough to buy a bowl of chili. "I gave him ten bucks," Michael said, "and I bet he's going to enjoy... Continue reading
Posted Feb 25, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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Perfect little meal sitting at the bar at Osteria Mozza. A little mozzarella. One perfect bite. A few sprightly greens... ....and what may be my current favorite dish in LA Tripe, stewed until it's soft, tender, almost silken, to scoop up with slightly charred toast. The best kind of peasant food. Continue reading
Posted Feb 24, 2015 at Ruth Reichl