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Ruth Reichl
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One Great Apron If you're going to wear an apron, it should do more than simply look good. The Contra Apron, does. Made of waxed cotton, it's heavy, water-resistent, comes in three colors and has a pocket exactly where you want one. Looks pretty good too! Tilit makes aprons for all the coolest restaurants (Blue Hill, Empellon, Shuko, Hungry Cat,... Continue reading
Posted 1 hour ago at Ruth Reichl
This year, it seems, everyone is in a pickle: fermentation is all the rage. But the truth is, pickles are pretty easy. Sauerkraut, on the other hand, presents a challenge. You need to weight the cabbage down, a trick most home-fermenters accomplish by jerry-rigging a tippy tower of bowls. There’s also the problem of finding the right vessel: even a... Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Ruth Reichl
If you like sugar, you'll like beets. They have a very earthy sweetness. The texture is different, depending on how you cook them. Roast them whole, in their skins, and the texture is a lot like baked potatoes. Muhammara? Here's a recipe we developed at Gourmet: a jar of roasted red peppers (7 ounces), drained 2/3 cup fine fresh bread crumbs 1/3 cup walnuts, toasted lightly and chopped 2 to 4 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Put everything except the oil in a food processor and whirl until it's smooth. With the motor running, gradually add the oil. Put it into a bowl and serve as a dip.
Toggle Commented 5 days ago on Pretty (Easy) in Pink at Ruth Reichl
One of my favorite party foods is muhammara, the dip made of red peppers, walnuts, garlic and pomegranate molasses. Much as I love the sweet and sour flavor, it's the color, I think, that most appeals to me; having something so flashy and sassy sitting on my counter always makes me happy. So when I saw the recipe for David... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Hi John, Yes, I used an entire package of Dufour. You could probably use less and roll it out. But it worked well with an entire package.
Toggle Commented Nov 12, 2014 on Such an Easy Appetizer at Ruth Reichl
Made a mushroom tart the other day that was so easy - and so delicious - I thought I’d pass the recipe on. Saute 3 minced shallots in a tablespoon of butter. When the fragrance begins to rise from the pan, add 12 ounces or so of ordinary mushrooms and saute until they’ve surrendered all their juices. Keep cooking until... Continue reading
Posted Nov 11, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Dirty French is a frustrating restaurant. The staff is so lovely you worry they’ve all been indoctrinated into some new cult of niceness you have yet to hear about. They smile. They banter. They enthuse about the food and wine. And they’re determined to make sure you have a good time. If you order the right things, you definitely will.... Continue reading
Posted Nov 10, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
I’ve known about David Chang’s food lab for some time, but I've never really known what takes place behind those closed doors. It seems that unlike other flavor companies (Givaudan comes to mind), who are asking “how can we mimic real food with synthetics?" Chang and his team are moving in the opposite direction. They're trying to tease even more... Continue reading
Posted Oct 24, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
If we had stopped to put gas in the car, we would have missed it. But it was almost sunset, and I wanted to get to one of my favorite produce stands before they took everything in for the night. Et Cetera Farm is just a little cart by the side of the road, but on it you can find... Continue reading
Posted Oct 21, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Beautiful, right? Maybe it's because Anne-Sophie Pic is the only woman chef in France with three Michelin stars, but her food is the loveliest I've seen. Hard to imagine a prettier way to present seasonal vegetables in a green tea- infused broth - or a more delicious way to conceive an essentially simple dish. This was equally delicate, and equally... Continue reading
Posted Oct 18, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Hi Jessica, I've never substituted any cheese for the gruyere, but I'm pretty loose about cheese substitutions. The best substitute would be a Comte, but if you can't get gruyere, you're not going to find that. Parmesan will stand in for just about anything. Asiago too. Cheddar will do, as long as it's not too oily. Please let me know what you use - and how it works. Good luck!
Toggle Commented Oct 14, 2014 on Another Paris Meal to Love at Ruth Reichl
If I lived in Paris I'd be at Au Passage a lot. Casual, comfortable, raucous and delicious, this little wine bar/bistro is the perfect place to fall into when you're hungry but not in the mood for an enormous, expensive deal. The menu, as you can plainly see, is written on the blackboard. What you can't see is that it... Continue reading
Posted Oct 13, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Napoleon, it is said, met Josephine at Ledoyen. I don't know if that's true, but it certainly could be. For years I've stared longingly at the lights of this grand old building, set in a park just off the Champs Elysees, and thought it looked like the most romantic restaurant in the world. Then I heard that Yannick Alleno, whose... Continue reading
Posted Oct 11, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
One of the cardinal rules of restaurant-going is this: the better the view, the worse the food. You just don’t climb to the top of tall buildings, or sit on the waterfront, expecting a wonderful meal. Still, when Alain Ducasse is at the helm, you can't help having great expectations. Especially when the Guide Michelin has awarded his place a... Continue reading
Posted Oct 10, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Everybody loves Septime, the small restaurant in the 11th, which is just about the hardest reservation in Paris. I couldn't get in, so I was thrilled to find that their little "fisherie" next door doesn't take reservations. We got to Clamato at noon on Sunday, eager to be first in line. (We weren't.) It's a terrific little place, very simple,... Continue reading
Posted Oct 8, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Isn't this the most delicious looking round of cheese? It's a perfectly ripe Livarot, at the wonderful wine bar, Legrand Filles et Fils in the Palais Royal neighborhood. Excellent selection of wines, terrific cheeses. But probably not the perfect place to stop for a bite between an afternoon of major meat at Desnoyer and dinner at Verjus. Can't say I... Continue reading
Posted Oct 6, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
This is Hugo Desnoyer, the celebrity butcher of Paris, hand-chopping steak tartare. He just won Le Figaro's contest for best tartare in the city. And no wonder. His pristine shop out by the Bois de Boulogne is a lively place; when someone comes in for a large order, one of the butchers brings out whole sides of meat and cuts... Continue reading
Posted Oct 4, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
"You're killing me!" Susan Orlean wrote to BBQ Pitmaster John Markus; she was on the other coast, which meant missing another spectacular dinner at his house. I, on the other hand, was more fortunate. And as the evening approached, things got better. And better still. "The Maysville guys are coming to cook," John wrote a week ago. "Don't bring anything."... Continue reading
Posted Sep 30, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
There’s something perversely satisfying about a pile of decaying shelling beans. They don't look like much - all black freckles, and yellowing skins - but when you pull them apart you find shiny beans the color of pearls. In years past, shelling beans came and went with little fanfare. But this year's different: nearly every farmers market stall is bursting... Continue reading
Posted Sep 27, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
A little image from Portland Feast, the fabulous three-day festival where the eating never stops. This was around midnight, and although I couldn't capture it, those pigheads stretched out in a long, strange line. Different chefs did different things - all delicious. Best dish at this particular afterparty? The tripe and pork tacos served up by Brad Farmerie of New... Continue reading
Posted Sep 26, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
A secret space, hidden behind a door disguised as a bookcase. Could anything be more appealing? Longbaan literally means, "back of the house," and that's exactly where this restaurant is, hidden behind PaaDee, a restaurant specializing in Thai street food. It's a small, spare space - a few tables , a counter, two chefs working intently, barely looking up. Owner... Continue reading
Posted Sep 25, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
“Go to Ox.” I heard that so often while I was in Portland it made me skeptical. It can’t be that great, right? Wrong. This is the most amiable restaurant I’ve been to in quite a while. It’s not just that the food is straight up delicious, the service sweet and the room casually comfortable. Somehow an aura of happiness... Continue reading
Posted Sep 22, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
A single bright orange salmon roe doesn’t amount to much. But when it bursts into the mouth it dissolves into something primal - both sweet and salty - the taste of life itself. But imagine if the roe stayed intact. Imagine that you could barely chew it. Now imagine that chewy rubber married to dates, almond meal, milk and rosewater.... Continue reading
Posted Sep 19, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Paula Wolfert has always been one of my heros. She has the best palate of anyone I've ever met, and her cookbooks are meticulously researched, beautifully written and completely reliable. I've been cooking from her books since I first discovered Couscous and other Good Food from Morocco in 1973. But now she's doing something even more admirable: going public about... Continue reading
Posted Sep 17, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
Guinea Hen Full disclosure: this was a gift. I ordered some steaks from DeBragga, and when I opened the box I found this guinea as well. It didn't look like much - a scrawny bird, feet still on, very long wings, its deep red flesh glowing through the skin. I threw it into the refrigerator thinking, "I'll deal with you... Continue reading
Posted Sep 16, 2014 at Ruth Reichl