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Ruth Reichl
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Thanks Sarah. This is a farm I don't know - but I'll be checking it out soon.
Toggle Commented yesterday on Very Likable Lamb at Ruth Reichl
I used to love prune whip when I was a kid, but I'll bet I haven't even thought about it in 40 years. And with Fritos? Sounds pretty awful, I have to admit.
Toggle Commented yesterday on More Vintage Fritos Recipes at Ruth Reichl
Last week's vintage Fritos recipes were such a hit that I went trolling through old issues of Gourmet, looking for more. Here, from the September 1951 issue, are a couple of gems. Tomorrow, a few truly surprising Chinese recipes from that issue. They're remarkable for the time - although I think I'll skip the recipes for bird's nest and shark's... Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Ruth Reichl
I certainly do. When I was a cocktail waitress, conventioneers loved to come into the lounge I worked in and order pousse cafes all around. This was a nightmare for the bartender, who had to make the things - but more of a nightmare for the waitress, who had to carry them, very carefully, across the dining room, with a... Continue reading
Posted 3 days ago at Ruth Reichl
It's September 1960, and Gourmet has a very good piece about growing up in South America - complete with recipes for empanadas that sound very good. But that recipe also has a "Chilean paella" - pictured on the cover - which is kind of a mess of a recipe. All you need to see are those canned olive-embellished artichoke hearts... Continue reading
Posted 4 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Romney Sheep Went into The Meat Market in Great Barrington the other day, in search of inspiration, and spied a very lean-looking leg of lamb. "It's a Romney," said the butcher. "We don't get them very often." "What's different about that breed?" I wondered. Sheep, he explained, are divided into two categories: wool sheep and meat sheep. Romney, apparently, are... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Still sounds like a pretty good deal to me, Imperialist. First class airfare a third of the way around the world. Two weeks in a fancy hotel. Chauffeur. Meals. Six grand's not bad..... On the other hand, I'd rather be in Paris.
Toggle Commented 6 days ago on A Little Taste of 1960 at Ruth Reichl
It's July 1960, but this couple doesn't seem to realize they've left the fifties behind. Another interesting note: nearly all the ads in this issue of Gourmet are for liquor of some sort. Little surprise then, that the recipes tend to be rather boozy. Here are two: Continue reading
Posted 6 days ago at Ruth Reichl
The fifties were over; it was the first summer of the new decade, and what were New Yorkers dreaming of? An all-inclusive trip to Hawaii, which could be had, airfare and hotel included, for less than $800. How times change! To prepare you for that trip, the editors kindly threw in a recipe for the kind of Chinese shrimp toast... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at Ruth Reichl
If you're tired of opening your refrigerator and finding that the basil you bought two days ago has wilted into a sludgy black mess, take a look at the basil above. I bought it at the farmers market three weeks ago. "Treat it like flowers," said the young woman I bought my bunch from. "Just put it in a jar... Continue reading
Posted Jul 23, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
It's August 1978, and inquiring minds want to know about roasted candied tomatoes. It is, they tell the magazine, a recipe they haven't tasted for fifty years. Can the editors help? It's a dish I've never tasted at all - and it sounds interesting. So here you have it, a new recipe for your tomato repertoire. If that doesn't float... Continue reading
Posted Jul 22, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
This is the cover of Gourmet from April of 1951. It's a fascinating issue that makes you cringe as it tells you a great deal about where America was in the middle of the last century. Samuel Chamberlin makes another stop on his tour of France: "The Epicure of Savoy enjoys his sumptuous fare against the mightiest backdrop in Europe."... Continue reading
Posted Jul 21, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Dear Cenk Sonmezsoy, Yes! I want that recipe. It sounds fantastic! Today's not a good baking day - very hot and quite sultry. But as soon as the weather breaks, out come the sour cherries. Thanks so much.
Toggle Commented Jul 20, 2015 on "A Cheery Way with the Cherry" at Ruth Reichl
Gourmet, July 1977 Not quite sure how I feel about this. This article, entitled simply "Cherries" opens with the picture above. They're sour cherries. And yet every single one of the "cheery ways with the cherry" calls for sweet cherries. Kind of a disappointment. But I've always had a soft spot for upside down cakes, so I'm going to try... Continue reading
Posted Jul 20, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
I'm opening with these two images because, considered together, they explain so much about the remarkable restaurant that is Blue Hill at Stone Barns. The eggplant is simply that - an entire eggplant, charred into softness and served naked. Take the time to savor the flavors and you rediscover eggplant. Eggplants are amiable creatures, so willing to take a back... Continue reading
Posted Jul 19, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
This is Mimi Beaven, who runs the coolest little farm shop, Made in Ghent. Great bread. Fantastically beautiful eggs from the chickens that are pecking just outside the door. Pork from the pigs that live in the woods behind the farm, eating nut and berries. Chicken stock. Cookies... It's a little daunting, because the farm is so beautiful, the shop... Continue reading
Posted Jul 18, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Before we get to those elusive carolines, the cured scrod, as promised yesterday. Here they are in all their glory on the Fourth of July buffet. And here, as promised, the recipe: BB And now, those carolines.... According to Larousse, a caroline is a small eclair. Why didn't I know that? Gourmet's tiny eclairs are filled with cocktail franks and... Continue reading
Posted Jul 16, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
You will instantly notice a change from the past couple of covers: we've jumped to 1982, and new possibilities in printing. Say farewell to illustrated covers as we enter the age of photography. But this pretty cover hides some serious surprises; the food inside is not nearly as docile and ladylike as the photograph would lead you to believe. I... Continue reading
Posted Jul 15, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
I've been reading through the July issues in the box of old magazines that arrived yesterday, a bit surprised by the lack of strict seasonality. July 1971, for instance, has an insane recipe from the Troisgros brothers for a Gratin Forezien containing a pound of potatoes and more than two cups of cream. That issue also has ham with port... Continue reading
Posted Jul 14, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
A carton has just arrived on my doorstep. When I opened it I discovered that the wonderful people at Mclean & Eakin, a truly great bookstore in Petoskey, Michigan, had sent me armfuls of old Gourmet Magazines. I can hardly think of a better way to spend the morning. I started with this issue, from July of 1958. There are... Continue reading
Posted Jul 13, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
I'm a butter person; a world without butter would be a very dreary place. But Michael keeps asking me to bake cakes that use oil instead of butter, so here's another dairy-free cake. What I like is it's sheer simplicity; this is about as basic - and easy - as they come. But one warning: don't open the oven too... Continue reading
Posted Jul 10, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Someone recently asked me to list favorite cookbooks, and this is the first one that came to mind. Edouard de Pomiane was a scientist, a writer and one of the world's greatest demystifiers of the cooking process. He was also, at least judging from his writing and radio programs, a fascinating man with a wicked sense of humor. I'm sorry... Continue reading
Posted Jul 8, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
If there's a cheese that's easier to love than aged Gouda, I have yet to encounter it. It has such a sweet seductive flavor and soft fudgy texture that it practically purrs. This L'Amuse Signature Gouda is hand-aged by affineur Betty Koster in her cheese shop in Santpoort-Noord. Think butterscotch, think caramel, think irresistible. It has a resonant flavor that... Continue reading
Posted Jul 6, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
These days when I ask Michael what he wants for dinner he's most likely to say "that Chinese pasta please." I'm always happy to oblige. This is just about the easiest meal I make - and if you're the sort of person who finds yourself ordering in from Chinese restaurants, you should become acquainted. The ingredients are easy to keep... Continue reading
Posted Jul 2, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
This isn't really a paella that anyone in Valencia would recognize as real, but it certainly made a festive Sunday night dinner. The tumble of flavors - saffron, chorizo, pimentos - with that wonderfully fat and slightly chewy rice is absolutely irresistible. And although this is a protein-heavy meal, if you eliminate the shrimp, it's not all that expensive. Next... Continue reading
Posted Jun 29, 2015 at Ruth Reichl