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Ruth Reichl
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Stopped in at The Little Jewel of New Orleans Grocery and Deli today, to get some gumbo to go. It may be one of L.A.'s best bargains- a really righteous bowl of gumbo, a side of rice, along with toast and butter for about ten bucks. A fantastic dinner. Haven't tried anything else here, although I'm thinking those muffalettas would... Continue reading
Posted 2 days ago at Ruth Reichl
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That's Nancy Silverton, serving the focaccia di Recco at Chi Spacca, which may be the most irresistible thing I've eaten this year. Think crisp, paper thin layers of dough. Rich stretchy cheese. Olive oil. Salt. The play of textures is arresting - you focus on the amazing things happening in your mouth - and then you just stop thinking altogether... Continue reading
Posted 3 days ago at Ruth Reichl
There are too many food blogs. We all know that; it's impossible to keep up. But I've just stumbled on another one that's really worth the time. Paper and Salt examines the favorite foods of literary icons, which is, of course, a whole new way to get to know your favorite authors. It's a fascinating look at writers as diverse... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Ruth Reichl
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I can't resist antique kitchen utensils, which is why I have so many cast iron pots. Lately I've been looking for a copper egg white bowl because I have a strong urge to make zabaglione. But my most recent find here in my rented kitchen in LA was this little beauty: a well-seasoned iron popover pan. Popovers are descended from... Continue reading
Posted Jan 23, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Dickshell: Yes, the bread gets really crisp - as does the cheese topping. That is part of the joy of this particular little snack. I'm sorry to say I never got to B&G - sounds kind of great.
Hi Alexis, I don't have a specific brand of saffron. The truth is that I always buy mountains of it when I go to Spain - it's so much cheaper there - and use that. I'm just about to run out, but happily I'm heading to Bilbao on March 1st for the Parabere conference, so I'll have a chance to buy more. Sorry not to be more helpful here. Anyone have a brand they like?
Toggle Commented Jan 22, 2015 on Sholeh Zard at Ruth Reichl
Poor Man’s Tarte Flambée This was a big favorite at Gourmet, but around our house it’s known as “Robert’s Cheese Toast” because my friend Robert likes it so much. The truth is, everybody I know loves this old-fashioned American classic, and no matter how much I make, it vanishes in a flash. Which is why there is no photograph: every... Continue reading
Posted Jan 22, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
This is from the Cooking of the MIddle East. A revelation to me, when I first read it....
Toggle Commented Jan 21, 2015 on Sholeh Zard at Ruth Reichl
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Sunny Buttery Saffron Rice Pudding Rice pudding is the chicken soup of desserts. Ultimate comfort food, it's an international dish that changes its style as it travels the world. Once again perusing my stack of Time-Life books I came upon another recipe I couldn’t resist: sholeh-zard, or Persian saffron rice pudding. A goldenrod smear on the page suggests I once... Continue reading
Posted Jan 20, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
A Great New Site You Want to Know About As you probably know, I'm very partial to Cherry Bombe, the beautiful food magazine that celebrates women and food. It's the counterpoint to Lucky Peach, the gonzo food magazine whose every issue teems with kooky art, pages-long recipes for classic delicacies (stag pizzle soup anyone?), and a long meaty read or... Continue reading
Posted Jan 17, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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Curried Cauliflower Flipping through my Time-Life cookbooks is like stepping into a temperamental time machine. Some food-splotched recipes ring no bells, while others summon memories so vivid I can literally smell them. How many times did I make that manicotti, and for how many people? Suddenly I’m lugging it up the rickety steps of an abandoned building on Stanton Street... Continue reading
Posted Jan 15, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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That's me, Alice (Waters) and Nell (Newman), at the end of the Good Food Awards in San Francisco. We hand out the medals every year, to a slew of impressive artisans who are making outstanding charcuterie, cheese, honey, chocolate, oils, pickles, preserves, coffee, beer and booze. Afterward there's a Marketplace at the Ferry Building where you can taste the country's... Continue reading
Posted Jan 13, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Bad olive oil will ruin anything it touches! Not a good place to economize.
Toggle Commented Jan 10, 2015 on Meatballs for a New Year at Ruth Reichl
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A Taste of the Past I love revisiting the cookbooks I used growing up. They shaped me as much as any novel, and flipping through the sauce-splotched pages takes me back, makes me remember long-forgotten dishes. But dusting off the Time-Life Foods of the World books is an entirely different experience. These 27 books, with their accompanying spiral-bound recipe books,... Continue reading
Posted Jan 10, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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First Taste of LA You can smell the rich scent of the beef cooking from halfway down the block. So that is, of course, the first thing that you order at Mexicali Taco & Co. The name makes it sound a lot fancier than it is. This is a humble place on an odd stretch of Figueroa Street - not... Continue reading
Posted Jan 7, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
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That, my friends, is the head of the capon I cooked for Boxing Day dinner. (Capons are castrated roosters; they are larger, firmer, fatter and juicier than ordinary chickens. They're less active than your regular rooster, which makes the meat especially tender. And because these capons are older than commercial birds, they have a lot more flavor. ) Simply roasted,... Continue reading
Posted Jan 3, 2015 at Ruth Reichl
Great Garlic Bread A fragrant loaf of garlic bread is the best way I know to please a crowd. While it bakes it perfumes the neighborhood, broadcasting such deeply nostalgic signals that it can send the staidest grownup straight back to childhood. It is both easier and harder to make a great loaf of garlic bread than it once was.... Continue reading
Posted Dec 28, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Bacon Cheese Coins My friend Robin showed up for Christmas dinner last night with these really fantastic (and very rich) cheese crackers. I asked for the recipe - and thought I'd share. Gruyere and Bacon Wafers 2 slices bacon 4 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup unbleached flour 1/2 cup finely grated gruyere 3 tablespoons grated parmesan reggiano 1/2... Continue reading
Posted Dec 26, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Share the Wealth Here is a remarkably simple—and smart—idea. Sharetable.org has persuaded dozens of San Francisco restaurants to donate a portion of gift certificate sales to the SF Food Bank. (Just make sure you buy the certificates through the Sharetable website, otherwise it's just a regular certificate.) So while treating an SF-based loved one to an exquisite meal, you’re also... Continue reading
Posted Dec 24, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Books to Cook By Nothing gives me greater pleasure than to stand cooking in the kitchen, surrounded by wonderful aromas, listening to a good book. If you know someone who's rather be in the kitchen than anywhere else, why not give them a good book to listen to? A subscription to audible.com is an instant gift - and it will... Continue reading
Posted Dec 23, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Some Like it Hot This is probably the last day you can reasonably order a gift online to arrive in time for Christmas. So I'm going to suggest my favorite small kitchen appliance. I've had this small spice grinder for many years, and it just keeps trucking along. But these days, as I find myself using more spices, cooking more... Continue reading
Posted Dec 22, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Gifts from the Sea We're getting close to Christmas, and I've been wandering the aisles of local shops, looking for plausible presents. That's when I saw the seaweed. Kombu comes in dried ribbons that unfurl into long sheets that are at least as tall as I am. It's wonderful stuff. A small piece steeped in simmering soup for fifteen minutes... Continue reading
Posted Dec 21, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Rolling in Dough Baking your own bread is the most satisfying thing you can do in the kitchen. For lazy people (count me among them), Jim Leahy’s excellent no-knead recipe produces an astonishingly satisfying loaf. But bread's my favorite food - the answer I always give when people ask what I'd eat if I could only eat one thing for... Continue reading
Posted Dec 20, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Home Grown Here on the East Coast, January, February, and March are bleak. Snow melts into sludge. Sunlight's in short supply. Night comes too soon. You begin longing for fresh vegetables, waiting for the return of vibrant farmers' markets. This gift really helps. I love looking at the vertical garden in my window. Tasting it is even better. You harvest... Continue reading
Posted Dec 19, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Nice Ice Speakeasy's are the coolest kids on the block. The bitters shelves in fancy grocery stores keep growing. And cocktail guides have become their own special category in your local bookstore. We're having a cocktail moment—and it's not likely to end very soon. But if you care about cocktails, attention must be paid to the ice. The best bartenders... Continue reading
Posted Dec 18, 2014 at Ruth Reichl