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Ruth Reichl
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I’ve known about David Chang’s food lab for some time, but I've never really known what takes place behind those closed doors. It seems that unlike other flavor companies (Givaudan comes to mind), who are asking “how can we mimic real food with synthetics?" Chang and his team are moving in the opposite direction. They're trying to tease even more... Continue reading
Posted yesterday at Ruth Reichl
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If we had stopped to put gas in the car, we would have missed it. But it was almost sunset, and I wanted to get to one of my favorite produce stands before they took everything in for the night. Et Cetera Farm is just a little cart by the side of the road, but on it you can find... Continue reading
Posted 4 days ago at Ruth Reichl
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Beautiful, right? Maybe it's because Anne-Sophie Pic is the only woman chef in France with three Michelin stars, but her food is the loveliest I've seen. Hard to imagine a prettier way to present seasonal vegetables in a green tea- infused broth - or a more delicious way to conceive an essentially simple dish. This was equally delicate, and equally... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at Ruth Reichl
Hi Jessica, I've never substituted any cheese for the gruyere, but I'm pretty loose about cheese substitutions. The best substitute would be a Comte, but if you can't get gruyere, you're not going to find that. Parmesan will stand in for just about anything. Asiago too. Cheddar will do, as long as it's not too oily. Please let me know what you use - and how it works. Good luck!
Toggle Commented Oct 14, 2014 on Another Paris Meal to Love at Ruth Reichl
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If I lived in Paris I'd be at Au Passage a lot. Casual, comfortable, raucous and delicious, this little wine bar/bistro is the perfect place to fall into when you're hungry but not in the mood for an enormous, expensive deal. The menu, as you can plainly see, is written on the blackboard. What you can't see is that it... Continue reading
Posted Oct 13, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Napoleon, it is said, met Josephine at Ledoyen. I don't know if that's true, but it certainly could be. For years I've stared longingly at the lights of this grand old building, set in a park just off the Champs Elysees, and thought it looked like the most romantic restaurant in the world. Then I heard that Yannick Alleno, whose... Continue reading
Posted Oct 11, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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One of the cardinal rules of restaurant-going is this: the better the view, the worse the food. You just don’t climb to the top of tall buildings, or sit on the waterfront, expecting a wonderful meal. Still, when Alain Ducasse is at the helm, you can't help having great expectations. Especially when the Guide Michelin has awarded his place a... Continue reading
Posted Oct 10, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Everybody loves Septime, the small restaurant in the 11th, which is just about the hardest reservation in Paris. I couldn't get in, so I was thrilled to find that their little "fisherie" next door doesn't take reservations. We got to Clamato at noon on Sunday, eager to be first in line. (We weren't.) It's a terrific little place, very simple,... Continue reading
Posted Oct 8, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Isn't this the most delicious looking round of cheese? It's a perfectly ripe Livarot, at the wonderful wine bar, Legrand Filles et Fils in the Palais Royal neighborhood. Excellent selection of wines, terrific cheeses. But probably not the perfect place to stop for a bite between an afternoon of major meat at Desnoyer and dinner at Verjus. Can't say I... Continue reading
Posted Oct 6, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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This is Hugo Desnoyer, the celebrity butcher of Paris, hand-chopping steak tartare. He just won Le Figaro's contest for best tartare in the city. And no wonder. His pristine shop out by the Bois de Boulogne is a lively place; when someone comes in for a large order, one of the butchers brings out whole sides of meat and cuts... Continue reading
Posted Oct 4, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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"You're killing me!" Susan Orlean wrote to BBQ Pitmaster John Markus; she was on the other coast, which meant missing another spectacular dinner at his house. I, on the other hand, was more fortunate. And as the evening approached, things got better. And better still. "The Maysville guys are coming to cook," John wrote a week ago. "Don't bring anything."... Continue reading
Posted Sep 30, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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There’s something perversely satisfying about a pile of decaying shelling beans. They don't look like much - all black freckles, and yellowing skins - but when you pull them apart you find shiny beans the color of pearls. In years past, shelling beans came and went with little fanfare. But this year's different: nearly every farmers market stall is bursting... Continue reading
Posted Sep 27, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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A little image from Portland Feast, the fabulous three-day festival where the eating never stops. This was around midnight, and although I couldn't capture it, those pigheads stretched out in a long, strange line. Different chefs did different things - all delicious. Best dish at this particular afterparty? The tripe and pork tacos served up by Brad Farmerie of New... Continue reading
Posted Sep 26, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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A secret space, hidden behind a door disguised as a bookcase. Could anything be more appealing? Longbaan literally means, "back of the house," and that's exactly where this restaurant is, hidden behind PaaDee, a restaurant specializing in Thai street food. It's a small, spare space - a few tables , a counter, two chefs working intently, barely looking up. Owner... Continue reading
Posted Sep 25, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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“Go to Ox.” I heard that so often while I was in Portland it made me skeptical. It can’t be that great, right? Wrong. This is the most amiable restaurant I’ve been to in quite a while. It’s not just that the food is straight up delicious, the service sweet and the room casually comfortable. Somehow an aura of happiness... Continue reading
Posted Sep 22, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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A single bright orange salmon roe doesn’t amount to much. But when it bursts into the mouth it dissolves into something primal - both sweet and salty - the taste of life itself. But imagine if the roe stayed intact. Imagine that you could barely chew it. Now imagine that chewy rubber married to dates, almond meal, milk and rosewater.... Continue reading
Posted Sep 19, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Paula Wolfert has always been one of my heros. She has the best palate of anyone I've ever met, and her cookbooks are meticulously researched, beautifully written and completely reliable. I've been cooking from her books since I first discovered Couscous and other Good Food from Morocco in 1973. But now she's doing something even more admirable: going public about... Continue reading
Posted Sep 17, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Guinea Hen Full disclosure: this was a gift. I ordered some steaks from DeBragga, and when I opened the box I found this guinea as well. It didn't look like much - a scrawny bird, feet still on, very long wings, its deep red flesh glowing through the skin. I threw it into the refrigerator thinking, "I'll deal with you... Continue reading
Posted Sep 16, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Hand Harvested Salt Am I crazy? Maybe. This salt cost $12 for 4 ounces. But I love the way it looks skittering across the top of a fried egg - or just about anything else - and I love the way it feels in my hand. I love the taste too - like a mouthfull of arid ocean. Jacobsen salt... Continue reading
Posted Sep 8, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Two Interesting New Zealand Discoveries Why isn't anyone in America making a product like this? What we have here is wasabi powder, made of dried and colored horseradish, which passes for the more expensive (and difficult to grow) wasabi. Purewasabi, produced by a former policeman (hence the name), is real wasabi root, grated and mixed with a bit of lemon... Continue reading
Posted Sep 5, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Otahuna Lodge, just outside Christchurch, in New Zealand. The grand Victorian, built in 1895 by Sir Heaton Rhodes, has been beautifully preserved (and is now owned by two American men). Every room is gorgeous. I came upstairs, after a long, luxurious dinner, to find the curtains drawn, the sheets turned down, and a fire blazing merrily in my room (this... Continue reading
Posted Sep 2, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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Christchurch is heartbreaking and inspiring, in equal measure. New Zealand's second largest city is still recovering from the devastating earthquake of 2011. Huge swaths of the city have disappeared leaving gaping hulks of vanished buildings standing on every street like ghosts from the past. You walk the streets, haunted by the rubble of tumbled buildings. And yet there is a... Continue reading
Posted Aug 31, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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My last dinner in Auckland was at the tranquil Cocoro: a lovely, langorous meal that was utterly Japanese in its restrained simplicity. It began with these two oysters: one a Bluff oyster, too delicious to serve with anything more than a bit of salt and lemon. The other a Kaipara topped with a subtle yuzu foam. Next came a little... Continue reading
Posted Aug 30, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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This is such a beautiful city, perched on the water, the air fresh, green volcanos everywhere you look. Some lucky people take the ferry in from Waiheke Island, commuting in to work with orcas frisking around the boat, leaping, diving. Others live in wonderful Victorian homes, perched on hills, views of water on all sides. Life here seems casual, easy.... Continue reading
Posted Aug 29, 2014 at Ruth Reichl
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The day before I left for Australia, I found a beautiful purple daikon radish at the farmer’s market. I didn’t have time to eat it before I left. So I did the obvious thing: made it into pickles. For the first few hours, the radish’s incredible purple tie-die color lasted. But eventually it gave way to the pickling liquid, and... Continue reading
Posted Aug 27, 2014 at Ruth Reichl