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An abridged version of the speech Shelma Jun gave at the Access Fund's 25th Anniversary Dinner on October 22, 2016, on the next 25 years of climbing advocacy. Like many newer climbers, I learned to climb at a gym in the city with no idea or knowledge of the magical... Continue reading
Posted Oct 29, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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This pictogram series provides simple and engaging guidance on how our behaviors can impact the climbing environment. We encourage local climbing organizations, gyms, and other organizations to use these pictograms to help raise awareness of how to reduce our impact when climbing outdoors. Pick and choose the issues most relevant... Continue reading
Posted Aug 29, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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The internationally renowned climbing at City of Rocks and Castle Rocks in Southern Idaho sits amidst a patchwork of complicated land ownership and historical and cultural resources. Climbing in this region dates back to the 1960s, with varying levels of legal access. Today, climbing access and regulations in the region... Continue reading
Posted Aug 16, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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If you’re like most climbers, you pour over guidebooks for weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip. You educate yourself on routes, descents, gear, and camping. But what about the local ethics, issues, and challenges at your destination crag? Part of being a responsible climber is knowing how... Continue reading
Posted Aug 3, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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Keeping climbing areas open is the kind of work that’s never done. That’s why it’s so important for your local climbing organization (LCO) to have operations that set you up for success instead of holding you back. Here are 5 benchmarks that will create a solid foundation for your LCO.... Continue reading
Posted Jul 15, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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As the weather heats up, many of us will be heading into the alpine to get our climbing fix in cooler temperatures. The alpine zone, typically occurring above consistent tree line, is characterized by rocky talus slopes, dwarfed trees, and highly sensitive vegetation. The alpine environment is one of the... Continue reading
Posted Jun 10, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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By Jeff Achey, Contributing editor for Climbing Magazine and Creative Director at Wolverine Publishing Standing below a superb crag in the Nevada hills, I scoped the climb above me—a nice line of pockets, runnels, and big modern bolts…each with a pale swath of zinc streaking the blue limestone. Kinda sad.... Continue reading
Posted May 12, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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If you’re like most climbers, you pore over guidebooks for weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip. You educate yourself on routes, descents, gear, and camping. But what about the local ethics, issues, and challenges at your destination crag? Part of being a responsible climber is knowing how... Continue reading
Posted Apr 20, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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As the public land heist heats up in Congress, we encourage climbers to get to know federal land management agencies and how they approach climbing management. After all, almost 60% of the peaks, crags, and boulders in this country on America’s public, federally managed lands. Each agency has a unique... Continue reading
Posted Apr 5, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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Almost 60% of the peaks, crags, and boulders in this country are on America’s public, federally managed lands. These public lands are our birthright and are a cornerstone of the uniquely American climbing experience. Access Fund is deeply engaged in the legislative and administrative processes that determine our ability to... Continue reading
Posted Mar 30, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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Everybody does it. Whether you’re cragging, hanging off the side of a big wall, or making your way across a glacier, poop happens. But did you know that the improper disposal of human waste is becoming a growing problem at our climbing areas...and it can threaten access. Land managers don’t... Continue reading
Posted Mar 24, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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It is difficult to imagine the American climbing scene minus National Monuments. Teddy Roosevelt established Devils Tower in 1906, and since then, several iconic climbing areas such as Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pinnacles, Joshua Tree, and Gates of the Arctic have been protected as presidential National Monuments. (Some of... Continue reading
Posted Mar 14, 2016 at Access Fund Blog
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We often get asked "what do I get for my annual membership?" It's a great question and one that we love answering. While there are a few fun perks of membership (like discounts), the true benefit of membership is open and conserved climbing areas. The Access Fund is proud to... Continue reading
Posted Dec 8, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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Indian Creek. Hueco Tanks. Joshua Tree. Red Rocks. Joe’s Valley. The desert environment is home to iconic climbing destinations. Characterized by little precipitation and sparse populations, the stark landscape of the desert is uniquely fragile and full of life. As such, the desert environment demands some specific minimum- impact practices... Continue reading
Posted Dec 2, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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If you’re like most climbers, you pore over guidebooks for weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip. You educate yourself on routes, descents, gear, and camping. But what about the local ethics, issues, and challenges at your destination crag? Part of being a responsible climber is knowing how... Continue reading
Posted Nov 23, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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By Amanda Peterson, Access Fund Conservation Team For nearly two years, Mike and I have looped around the US, working with passionate and dedicated volunteers on climbing area stewardship projects. The volunteers we get to work with are as diverse as the landscapes we experience each week. But we often... Continue reading
Posted Nov 9, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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With many of our most popular climbing areas within close proximity to major population centers, the work of taggers or graffiti “artists” seems more prevalent than ever. If you’re like most climbers, you’re fed up with these attacks on our cherished resources. Ready to fight back? Climbers all across the... Continue reading
Posted Sep 29, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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In August 2009, Brad Carter climbed past the first bolt on Calling Wolfgang, a challenging, aesthetic line at Index in Washington State. At the second bolt, he hung, brushed off some holds and continued on. At the third, he hung again, intending to do the same. But as he weighted... Continue reading
Posted Aug 19, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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Dreaming about a trip to the Gunks this fall? If you’re like most climbers, you pore over guidebooks for weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip, educating yourself on routes, descents, gear, and camping. But what about the local ethics, issues, and challenges at your destination crag? Part... Continue reading
Posted Aug 6, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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It has been over two years since the National Park Service (NPS) issued a national-level policy that provides guidelines to individual parks on managing climbing (and bolts specifically) in designated Wilderness areas. Director’s Order #41 removed the threat that the NPS would ban bolts in Wilderness, but also tightened the... Continue reading
Posted Jul 30, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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You're heading to Indian Creek on a cool November weekend. The weather is splitter as you cruise through Moab to fill up your tank and head for your favorite spot at the Creek Pasture campground. The last couple of times you’ve been there, you’ve noticed the improvements in the area—a... Continue reading
Posted Jul 20, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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A battle is currently looming in Congress over the transfer of a huge swath of America’s public lands in the west—putting millions of acres (and the climbing opportunities they offer) under siege. A group of politicians have written bills proposing that individual states “take back” America’s parks, Bureau of Land... Continue reading
Posted Jul 7, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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Yosemite Valley provided the perfect backdrop for the first in our series of Climbing Stewardship Trainings. Over four days, representatives from California local climbing organizations, land trusts, Park Service staff, and Yosemite Climbing Stewards and Rangers came out to learn and share best practice techniques and concepts for sustaining our... Continue reading
Posted Jun 5, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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Rolling six deep to the crag this weekend? Before you head out, know that climbing in large groups can have a much greater environmental and social impact than climbing in pairs. If you must climb in a large group, follow these 5 tips to minimize your impact: Carpool - Instead... Continue reading
Posted May 12, 2015 at Access Fund Blog
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On Sunday, January 25, 2015—957 days after Mokuleia on the North Shore of Oahu was closed— Hawaii climbers were finally able to return to their beloved crag. After being dealt a devastating blow to climbing access in the spring of 2012, the water-locked Oahu climbing community started a fight for... Continue reading
Posted Apr 14, 2015 at Access Fund Blog