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Solvitur Ambulando
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Finishing the Camino de Santiago last weekend has been one of the most humbling and deeply significant experiences I have known, and so it was good to come to Finisterre, the "end of the earth", to reflect on all of this. Many pilgrims continue their walk after Santiago to this... Continue reading
Posted Jun 2, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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I awoke today much later than usual and without an obligation to the Camino. It was so very odd. I wandered up to the Cathedral, walked past the bagpipe player, and heard someone calling my name as I rounded the corner to the Praza do Obradoiro. Edelise and Kevin from... Continue reading
Posted May 29, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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There is a phrase used in sports - "leaving it all on the field". It's generally used at the end of the season where nothing is held back because there are no more games. Such was today on the Camino. From Salceda to Santiago is 28.7 kilometers and it rained... Continue reading
Posted May 28, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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It's always amazed me how a couple of beautiful conversations and wonderful energy can make 24.7 kilometers fly right by. Though the scenery was lovely today, center stage was old and new friends. This always drives the photo count down, but hopefully I will make up for it tomorrow as... Continue reading
Posted May 27, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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What a beautiful morning it was in Spain today...sunny in the low 60's. Perfect weather for a light walking day of only 15 kilometers through the lush greens of Galicia to the city of Melide. My decision to go short today was based on available accommodations (it's crowded out here... Continue reading
Posted May 26, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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I left the quiet streets of Portomarin fairly early this morning under broken overcast and immediately undertook the climb out of the river valley. I was rewarded at the top with a beautiful rainbow...nice way to start any day, and I felt grateful for the timing that allowed me to... Continue reading
Posted May 25, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Today was one of the relatively few days so far where rain was a factor. The region of Galicia is known for Seattle-like weather, so it's to be more or less expected. Still got some nice photos, but I missed the 100 kilometer marker. Did not realize it until I... Continue reading
Posted May 24, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Above is Rua Maior...little else other than albergues and bars. This is only one street in an entire section. Because of its location and the rules for obtaining a Compostela certificate, this city is all about the pilgrim trade. That said,I have not seen the crowds I've been warned about.... Continue reading
Posted May 23, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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The walk today again began early due to the longer distance of almost 28 kilometers from the hamlet of Fonfria to the small city of Sarria. The morning light was just beautiful as I descended to the town of Triacastella. From there, the expansive mountain scenery was essentially behind me,... Continue reading
Posted May 23, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Today, the Camino entered Galicia, the final region of the pilgrimage walk. Featured was the much anticipated climb to O Cebreiro after a very early start to allow for the first 8 kilometers of uphill, slow going. The Camino rewarded abundantly with some of the most beautiful scenery I have... Continue reading
Posted May 22, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Today the landscape changed again to the more tightly spaced hills of Galicia, though I won't officially enter that region until tomorrow morning with the notorious climb to the mountaintop town of O Cebreiro. All of today's walk however, was on paved road, and the scenery was less than spectacular.... Continue reading
Posted May 21, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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As I was descending through the hills from El Acebo and into Ponferrada the other day, I could see the city and a large valley beyond. Today's walk crossed that valley to the town of Cacabelos, and entered the hills once again at the village of Pieros. From there I... Continue reading
Posted May 20, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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It was one of those many times on this pilgrimage when I've found myself repeating a little mantra. Today's was "I can't believe I'm in Ponferrada Spain, exploring the castle of the Knights Templar". It was a little surreal as I spent the late afternoon wandering through a mostly restored... Continue reading
Posted May 19, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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I left El Acebo this morning under a mostly overcast sky, but the breaks in the clouds made for some interesting plays of light. It began as I walked out the door of the albergue / hostel and continued as I descended into the valley. With most of the hills... Continue reading
Posted May 19, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Last night in Rabanal, I was blessed to attend evening Vespers at Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, hosted by the Benedictine Abbey of San Salvadore de Monte Irago. I took no photos during the service. As the monk explained to us, "This is a holy place because God... Continue reading
Posted May 18, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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The day began with a 5.4 kilometer climb to the mythical village of Foncebadon. Paolo Coelho wrote of this place in his book The Pilgrimage, where he does battle with a metaphorical black dog, and Shirley MacLaine writes about encountering vicious dogs here in her book on the Camino. Like... Continue reading
Posted May 18, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Above is the Gaudi Palace in Astorga, once home for the Archbishop and later a military headquarters. Below, two shots of Ermita del Ecce Homo, a former pilgrim hospital located just outside Astorga. Above, a signpost along the way. Below, rolling hills with mountains beyond, entering Santa Catalina de Somoza,... Continue reading
Posted May 18, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
Unfortunately, the local wifi will not allow for photo uploads to the blog. I'm now in pretty hilly country, will be until I reach Santiago de Compostela, and am thinking this may become an issue. If I find the same conditions in El Acerbo tomorrow (Wednesday), I will hope to... Continue reading
Posted May 17, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Once again, today's walk featured beautiful weather with a crisp, early start, and warmed as the day progressed. Conditions could not have been better for the 31.5 kilometer trek. Today marked the end of Meseta landscape at the town of Hospital de Orbigo, and transitioned to a more rolling countryside... Continue reading
Posted May 16, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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**Posting Sunday's walk on Monday due to wifi issues in Villar de Mazarife** I left the wonderful city of Leon early through deserted streets and the peace of a clear, bright, and beautiful Sunday. I passed by some young men experiencing the bitter after effects of a night that carried... Continue reading
Posted May 16, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Today was the last day of rest before resuming the Camino early Sunday morning, and I'm happy to say it was absent of any agenda. The title pretty much says it all. Lovely things can happen without an agenda. For example, I had the energy to go sit on a... Continue reading
Posted May 14, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Spanish culture tends toward the nocturnal, and this includes just about everybody...there are babies rolling around out there at night. On the surface, the scene looks like chaos and partying, but it's actually pretty sedate. Just some hanging out, socializing, eating, and imbibing. In all my walking around, I saw... Continue reading
Posted May 13, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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After visiting the Catedral de Santa Maria de Leon, I wandered around town some more. I've found that Spanish cities tend to have really lovely public spaces, and are impeccably clean as well. This is the Hostel San Marcos, originally a 15th century pilgrim refuge. Those of you who saw... Continue reading
Posted May 13, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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Construction of this cathedral was undertaken in the 13th century, and was completed in somewhere between 50 and 100 years (depending on the source of information). Considering the methods of the time and the scope of what was built, this is nothing short of remarkable and possibly miraculous. By comparison,... Continue reading
Posted May 13, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando
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I'm always so moved by acts of devotion, the expression of the Spirit within. I was wandering around Thursday evening after dinner and heard a single drum beat and the sound of sticks hitting the street. Looked to find this and wanted to share it with you. Continue reading
Posted May 12, 2016 at Solvitur Ambulando