Two scoops of Graham Central Station — whose key ingredient is blended into the base and, later, added in bits and pieces — from a recent excursion to the north. The name itself pointed me back south, to New York. Dunlap's Ice Cream 418 State Rte. 286, Seabrook, New Hampshire... Continue reading

Taste of Harlem Thursday, August 15, 6:00-9:30 The Grand Slam Banquet Hall, 3534 Broadway (at 145th St., 2nd floor), Manhattan www.Eventbrite.com/e/taste-of-harlem-2019-tickets-64974162469 Suggested donation: $15 Savor the Summer Thursday, August 15, 6:00-9:00 Pier A Harbor House, 22 Battery Pl., Manhattan http://Events.Thrillist.com/SavorTheSummer2019 Tickets: $55La Festa Italiana, Jersey City Continues Thursday through Sunday,... Continue reading

A Practical Guide to Food Writing Thursday, August 8, 7:00-9:00 Museum of Food and Drink, 62 Bayard St. (Lorimer-Leonard Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn www.MOFAD.org/events/foodwriting Tickets: $25 One in a series presented by MOFAD Giglio di Sant' Antonio Feast Thursday through Sunday, August 8-11, various evening and weekend hours Pleasant Ave. between... Continue reading

... and won't be posting for a while, with the exception of my food-events roundup, which will be published as usual each Wednesday. Other posts will resume later this month. Continue reading

Correction: Previously I had written that Flushing's Golden Shopping Mall, in its entirety, would close at the end of July 2019. Subsequently I've learned of good news: The street-level businesses will remain open while the lower level (shown: Tianjin Dumpling House) is renovated over the course of three to four... Continue reading

The Culture of Corn Thursday, August 1, 7:00-9:00 Museum of Food and Drink, 62 Bayard St. (Lorimer-Leonard Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn www.MOFAD.org/events/2019/6/27/oxomocotamoa Tickets: $25 One in a series presented by MOFAD Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival Saturday and Sunday, August 3-4, 9:00-5:00 Meadow Lake North, Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Queens www.HKDBF-NY.org/home.php?choice=foodcourt... Continue reading

Locrio, very possibly, is a Dominican descendant of paella. Cooked with seasonings that include cilantro, garlic, and chopped sweet pepper, the rice is bolstered by meats such as chicken, pork, chorizo, or Dominican salami, individually or in combination. Locrio de pica pica (shown here) is a particularly homespun variety: It... Continue reading

Lox on a bagel — crunchy fried lox, that is, with a little lettuce, tomato, and red onion, on a toasted garlic-sesame bagel. Who knew? Williamsburg Bagel 343 Roebling St. (at Division Ave.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn 347-678-3928 Closed after lunch Friday and all day Saturday Continue reading

Grapenut ice cream features the wheat-and-barley cereal, which contains no grapes or nuts, in a vanilla-flavored (and, in this case, vegan) base. Got another napkin? Scoops 624 Flatbush Ave. (at Fenimore St.), Prospect Lefferts Gardens, Brooklyn 718-282-5904 www.Facebook.com/pages /Scoops-Ice-Cream-Parlor/115444518485466 Closed Sunday and Monday Continue reading

As late as the 1950s, many New York gentlemen rarely went about bareheaded. By contrast this sign, probably exposed during construction, has been left uncovered, offering a tip of the hat to a restaurant-design fashion of today. "[Not re]sponsible [for ha]ts & coats" Surviving signage at Chama Mama 149 West... Continue reading

Heirloom Kitchen Thursday, July 25, 6:30-7:30 Museum of Chinese in America, 215 Centre St. (Grand-Howard Sts.), Manhattan www.MOCANYC.org/visit/events/mocatalks_with_author_anna_gass_heirloom_kitchen Tickets: $15 Dining Out: A Global History of Restaurants Thursday, July 25, 7:00-??? 92nd St. Y, 1395 Lexington Ave. (at 92nd St.), Manhattan www.92Y.org/event/dining-out Tickets: $29 Fresh Tofu Everyday with Hiroko Shimbo... Continue reading

Wearied laminated menus reclined at one end of the counter; I noticed them only when I was about to settle up. "Since everyone is a regular," said a lady, beside me, who had just paid her tab, "no one really needs a menu." Me neither, not for a simple pleasure... Continue reading

Even at the height of summer, kongguksu — a cold soybean-based noodle soup — was not the most-desired dish at our table, though it might have been the most photogenic. The haemul pajun (below, being scissored before serving) was a superb version of this ubiquitous Korean seafood pancake, thicker and... Continue reading

Not the moon: a black sesame puff, the last of its batch, whose shell might have been puffier if I'd stopped by for breakfast and not before lunch. The dark side and the well-packed, even darker inside appear below. At bottom: a handwritten sign, in Chinese and English, overlays a... Continue reading

Prompted by the hand-chalked window menu: a pair of heavily-laden tacos de panza blanca, or goat stomach. You'll find good AC in the dining area, once you duck beneath the stairway to the apartments above. Deli El Bigotes ("whiskers," in Spanish; all are welcome) 3 East 31st St. (Church-Snyder Aves.),... Continue reading

The dough for palata is "stretched to translucence by a series of acrobatic, table-slapping wrist flips, then stretched just a bit further until it seemingly must tear under its own weight." For Myo Lin Thway — shown, in the first photo, beside his wife, Rebecca, at the 2007 Myanmar Baptist... Continue reading

Fermented Foods: A Bubbly History and Funky Future Thursday, July 18, 6:30-8:00 Brooklyn Historical Society, 128 Pierrepont St. (at Clinton St.), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn www.Eventbrite.com/e/fermented-foods-a-bubbly-history-and-funky-future-tickets-60431540364 General admission: $10 Feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, Brooklyn Concludes Thursday through Sunday, July 18-21, various evening and weekend hours In the streets... Continue reading

"Hecha por Neoyorkinos. Inspirada en el Caribe. ... A golden pilsner brewed with plantains." —Advertisement for a collaboration between Blue Point of Patchogue, Long Island, and Presidente of the Dominican Republic, seen in Upper Manhattan Continue reading

Out of many pączki, one pączek (Pon-chek), a filled Polish doughnut in this instance flavored by plum, during an appearance at LIC Flea & Food. Sweet Malina Bakery 1635 Great Neck Rd., Copiague, New York 631-841-3465 Closed Monday Also at 1907-05 Great Neck Rd. 631-789-1945 Closed Sunday and Monday www.SweetMalinaBakery.com Continue reading

"That's a shame, I like a bit of Parkin with a cup of tea." Owing to that comment on my Flickr photostream — by Neil C., whose profile photo features a classic British red pillar post box — I've gleaned that parkin is an oatmeal gingerbread, dense with treacle, that's... Continue reading

Although this Korean restaurant is better known for tabletop BBQ, chilled bowls of naeng myun (often transliterated naengmyeon) are more ideally suited to summer weather. The two shown here, one ready to mix with spicy sauce, the other partially immersed in chilled beef broth, feature sliced beef, vegetables, hardboiled egg,... Continue reading

Feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, Brooklyn Continues Thursday through Sunday, July 11-21, various evening and weekend hours In the streets surrounding Our Lady of Mount Carmel, 275 North 8th St. (Havemeyer St.-Meeker Ave.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn www.OLMCfeast.com Free admission Go Africa Harlem Street Festival Saturday, July 13, 10:00-6:00 West... Continue reading

A hotdog window had been here before, and the signs at Foxface emphasized "sandwiches," but at first I didn't gather that my "moules frites" would be served between bread. So it was a surprise, as well as a pleasure, to see the care that went into its making — particularly... Continue reading

Sometimes even a talented graphic artist falls back on the printed word: In the tiny space allotted by the menu board, it would have been very difficult to render iconographic chickpeas. My dining buddy and I ordered two veggie combos, one over rice and beans, the other, equally substantial, inside... Continue reading

Enchiladas are corn tortillas imbued with a chile pepper sauce. Enfrijoladas (en-Free-ho-Lah-dahs) instead employ a sauce based on frijoles, that is, beans. For this trio, black beans were the foundation of the filling, too — enfrijoladas elevate them from side dish to featured attraction. Also shown, but not ventured, since... Continue reading