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Dave Cook
I maintain a website called Eating In Translation about interesting, usually inexpensive food in and around New York.
Interests: Classic films, fiction, travel (even if it's an extended day trip), poker (friendly games only), collecting (mostly flat things, since my apartment is small), trivia (covers most everything else).
Recent Activity
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This 波士頓派 (Bōshìdùn pài) omits the chocolate frost... Continue reading
Posted 41 minutes ago at Eating In Translation
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Dark meat, rich and chewy: duck gizzard with celery. Huang Jin Jiao 133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court stall 22; shown) 929-362-2551 Also, as Golden Corner Noodles, at 4215 College Point Blvd. (Sanford-Maple Aves.) 718-886-0123 www.HuangJinJiaoFood.com Continue reading
Posted 2 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Unlike a sandwich, a sliced jianbing rarely offers neatly trimmed photo-friendly surfaces. This spicy garlic crayfish jianbing was messier than most; credit the ample filling. On a return visit I'll pay proper attention to the roasted cold noodles. Followsoshi 13524 40th Rd. (Main-Prince Sts., inside the Corner 28 mini-mall), Flushing,... Continue reading
Posted 3 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Surviving signage with old HIckory 6 telephone exchange 9028 Astoria Blvd. (at 91st St.) East Elmhurst, Queens Continue reading
Posted 4 days ago at Eating In Translation
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All too frequently, fusion tacos pair interesting toppings with indifferent, often store-bought tortillas. These Jamaican-Mexican beauties, jerk chicken with diced apple and cucumber, and jerk pork with pineapple salsa, do justice to both traditions — each includes a fresh-pressed tortilla. Wah Gwaan 914-414-3484 www.WahGwaanNYC.com On this afternoon, at the Bronx... Continue reading
Posted 5 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Salbutes, popular in Belize and in the nearby Mexican state of Yucatán, resemble tostadas at a glance. But unlike tostadas, which often are made from day-old tortillas and can be shatteringly crunchy, salbutes are made from fresh masa or masa harina. Deep-fried and then topped, in this case with shredded... Continue reading
Posted 6 days ago at Eating In Translation
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Once associated with the pre-Lenten season, nowadays in New York sanguinaccio often appears as late as Easter. Of the bakeries in the Bronx's Little Italy that still prepare it as pudding or in pastries, however, reportedly only Egidio still incorporates the traditional pig's blood. Yes, it is rich; an espresso-cupful... Continue reading
Posted 7 days ago at Eating In Translation
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This West Indian grater cake (purchased at Patmar, but with a label, not shown, from Steph's in Canarsie, Brooklyn) is essentially a sugar-and-coconut drop cookie. Despite the bullseye (just food coloring), it's much easier to nibble the edges first. Patmar Bake Shop 20507 Linden Blvd. (205th St.-Francis Lewis Blvd.), St.... Continue reading
Posted Apr 5, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Latest in a continuing series, abandoned on a sidewalk in Jersey City Continue reading
Posted Apr 4, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Treska might have been the tipping point. Dining alone, after polishing off an appetizer of the vinegary fish-and-mayo salad, I turned to a plate of halušky (ha-Loosh-key), potato spaetzle with salty sheep's cheese and, implicitly, bacon. It would have been wiser to finish only as much halušky as pictured below... Continue reading
Posted Apr 3, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Focaccia Barese. 'Nuff said. Bread and Salt 435 Palisade Ave. (at Griffith St.), Jersey City 201-500-7338 https://BreadAndSalt.square.site Continue reading
Posted Apr 2, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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In and around NYC, familiar foods are often employed as metaphors to explain less familiar cuisines. At Griot Cafe in Jersey City, beignet lovers usually ask for powdered sugar on their fritters, says the Kenyan co-owner; folks who know mandazi generally take them as they come. Griot Cafe 398 Central... Continue reading
Posted Apr 1, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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I probably would have been pleased with what the menu calls "sundry tomatoes," too. The "Soprano": soppressata, prosciutto, mozzarella, and sun-dried tomatoes, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil. H/T Peter Genovese Andrea Salumeria 247 Central Ave. (Manhattan Ave.-Sherman Pl.), Jersey City 201-653-1666 www.AndreaSalumeria.com Closed Sunday Continue reading
Posted Mar 31, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Hand-painted signage, 1144 Bronx River Ave. (Westchester-Watson Aves.), Soundview, Bronx 718-328-7847 Wholesale only; closed Saturday and Sunday Continue reading
Posted Mar 30, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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This hard roll, top-loaded with ham, cheese, bacon, and bell pepper, was carried off by the counterwoman to be rewarmed in the kitchen. When she returned, a couple who had already filled their shopping basket caught the aroma; conveniently, two top-loaded rolls were still on display. Jola Polish Deli 110... Continue reading
Posted Mar 29, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Veal parm hero. Lioni Italian Heroes 7803 15th Ave. (78th-79th Sts.), Bensonhurst, Brooklyn 718-232-1411 Also at 406 36th St. (Fourth Ave.), Sunset Park 718-499-2011 www.LioniHeroes.com Continue reading
Posted Mar 27, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Detail of signage at the former, Ninth Ave., storefront, which I know only in passing. (B&H, the photo, video, and audio store, is directly across the avenue.) The restaurant relocated nearby but left this beautiful dragon behind. Ming's Restaurant 393 Eighth Ave. (29th-30th Sts.), Manhattan 212-868-1378 Continue reading
Posted Mar 26, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Bangladeshi bhuna khichuri, beef with yellow lentils and rice, accompanied by the essential plate of crisp palate cleansers. Mama's Restaurant 37-34 73rd St. (37th Ave.-Broadway), Jackson Heights, Queens 347-448-6002 Continue reading
Posted Mar 25, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Buttery pastry, tempered only by a thin seam of not-too-oily, not-too-spicy tunafish, enrobes this hand pie. Ghanaian snack vendor Outside the Bronx Islamic Cultural Center (Masjid Annasr), 50 East Tremont Ave. (at Walton Ave.), Mount Hope, Bronx Late-week afternoons might be the best time to find her Continue reading
Posted Mar 24, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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A sugar donut — nothing special, just the right one-dollar donut at the right time. Morning coffee and donut cart East 124th St. near the northwest corner with Park Ave., Manhattan Possibly weekdays only Continue reading
Posted Mar 23, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Chunks of stewed goat fleshed out my wakye (Watch-ay), a Ghanaian dish built on rice and beans. Grated cassava, pasty pepper sauce, and curls of spaghetti are typical accompaniments; for my order, a "medium," the chef tucked in plantain and cabbage, too. Adom Cuisine 613 East Tremont Ave. (Arthur-Hughes Aves.),... Continue reading
Posted Mar 22, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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One of many such hand-drawn signs (this, by Fausto Manuel Ramos, 2020) Astor Place Hairstylists 2 Astor Pl. (at Broadway), Manhattan 212-475-9854 www.AstorPlaceHairNYC.com Continue reading
Posted Mar 21, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Yes, I want fries with that: a rice-flour-battered, potato-embedded Korean hotdog. Chungchun Rice Hotdog 15616 Northern Blvd. (at 156th St., in a shopping center), Murray Hill, Queens www.ChungchunRiceDog.ca Continue reading
Posted Mar 20, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Your booth is ready: Memories of Shanghai has expanded from a dim sum counter, at the back of an alley, and now occupies the cozy confines of a former diner in Forest Hills, Queens. In the hands of founding chef Xueling Zhang, the xiao long bao are still great; thanks... Continue reading
Posted Mar 19, 2021 at Eating In Translation
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Atop boiled pierogi — here, a sampler of potato and cheese, sauerkraut and mushroom, and meat — a crunchy garnish is the best garnish. Sour cream, furnished on the side, helps hold those bits of bacon in place. Pierogi Boys Inside the DeKalb Market Hall, City Point, 445 Albee Square... Continue reading
Posted Mar 18, 2021 at Eating In Translation