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Stephen
Hi, and thanks for stopping by at Stephencooks.com. I'm Stephen Smith and I do all the cooking, photography and writing for Stephencooks.
Recent Activity
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Not with a bang but with the small sound, unnoticed at the time, of a crucial part snapping in my wheel. The freewheel failed, leaving me unable to move the bicycle forward except by pushing it. The freewheel is the most complicated assembly on a bicycle -the mechanism that allows... Continue reading
Posted Jun 24, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Due to reasons too complicated to recount here (and related to a family emergency for one of our group) we traveled by motor from Grand-Vallée to Forillon National Park (the red pin on the map above). This is a rugged land of dramatic cliffs and open sea. A few fishing... Continue reading
Posted Jun 24, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Rain. It's part of the adventure. We rode in it all day, cooked dinner in it and then listened to it pitter-patter on our tent flies all night. Fortunately there were more incredible views to be had. An incredible view of a different sort. We see maybe right of these... Continue reading
Posted Jun 24, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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I started the day making mechanical repairs - replacing a spoke and a sticky shifter cable. This little gazebo at the campground made a rather wonderful workshop. This was a day of short mileage (or kilometerage, I guess you might say here), long steep hills and unrelentingly incredible views. The... Continue reading
Posted Jun 22, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Today was a straightforward run along the coast, with spectacular views but also unfortunately a good bit of noisy, high-speed traffic over the shoulder. The road we are on is literally the only road going our direction. We are now officially on the Gaspé peninsula and the interior is mostly... Continue reading
Posted Jun 20, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Today was about transition, from rolling farmland to timeless sea. After a few miles rolling from our inland campground the route was entirely within a few hundred yards of the water...and for over 30 miles we were only the width of a seawall from the rocky edge. It was foggy... Continue reading
Posted Jun 19, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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We are now at the blue pointer in the center of this map - well north of the northern tip of Maine, which pokes up from the bottom of the frame. The land is a broad plain sloping gently to the St. Lawrence. Farms and small villages, with occasional woodlands,... Continue reading
Posted Jun 18, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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We spent two days in Quebec City. It's a walled city built above a fortress that guarded the St. Lawrence from a high bluff above the river. We stayed in the old city. It rained almost the entire time we were there but I did get out to take a... Continue reading
Posted Jun 17, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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My friend Ruth predicted that I would die on this road - Route 201, the only road from The Forks to the Canadian border. Allyssa, the bartender in the lodge at Northern Outdoors, guaranteed we'd see moose. This t-shirt on one of the high-school rafters (a class trip) is the... Continue reading
Posted Jun 16, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Today is a short story with few pictures: 65 miles in steady rain (the iPhone I'm also using for photos is rain-averse - I have it in a shockproof but not completely waterproof case). Fortunately the terrain was flat/rolling with significant further descent as we approach the St. Lawrence. And... Continue reading
Posted Jun 15, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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The big story today was our entry into Canada...which, apart from being an important milestone on this trip, was unremarkable. The fresh-faced young border agent was friendly, helpfully informing me that John had passed through 35 minutes earlier. He seemed far more interested in discussing a bike race that was... Continue reading
Posted Jun 15, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Long breakfast, walk in the woods, sitting on a rock by the river with a book, hottub, lunch by the pool, nap, more hottub, dinner in the lodge. Bike touring is a tough, tough job. Tomorrow: 26 mile climb, rain and logging trucks in the forecast. Continue reading
Posted Jun 9, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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We started the day with a pancake sendoff in Katherine's parents' (Art and Sally) farmhouse, which was reached via a path through Art's woodlot. (Blue is recovering from an encounter with a shard of broken glass a few weeks ago.) Sufficiently fueled, we cycled off to Skowhegan and on into... Continue reading
Posted Jun 9, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
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Quiet roads roads, perfect weather and rolling hills characterized our first days on the road to Quebec City. We hit the road about 9 on Friday, June 6. I'm riding with John Lucas, a veteran cycle tourist who counts Bar Harbor, Maine to Key West, Florida among his past trips.... Continue reading
Posted Jun 8, 2014 at Quebec Ramble
I'll be leaving tomorrow on the first leg of my trip: Portland to Quebec City. For a look at the route, click HERE. Continue reading
Posted Jun 5, 2014 at Quebec Ramble