Becky, there's not really a standardized way for pattern designers to handle set-up rows, so you'll just have to apply common sense and hope that the pattern writer did also. Generally, if the set-up row is immediately before the row labeled "Row 1", you're working flat, and Row 1 is to be worked right-to-left, then you would indeed expect to work the set-up row left-to-right, as a WS row. Without seeing your particular pattern, I can't be sure, but I expect that the set-up row is so labeled, rather than simply being called "Row 1", because Row 1 probably is the start of a repeat, so you'd be doing something like working the set-up row just once, but then working, say, Rows 1-12 multiple times; if the set-up row were Row 1, then the repeat would have to be Rows 2-13, and I'm sure you can see how that might be confusing.

It's my understanding that the early AS books are caught in a dispute between her and the publisher, and that the rights are either with the publisher or held jointly, so until and unless they can work something out (and apparently that's going to coincide with a rush on snowblowers in Hell), there isn't going to be a reissue.

Robin, thanks for your question! Your problem isn't a chart-reading one, however, but a YO problem. You've gotten the impression, probably from poorly written directions, that the YO includes working a stitch (that is, that it makes 2 stitches from one); this is wrong, and a YO is simply the loop of yarn over the needle, and does not include doing anything to one of the existing stitches -- it makes 1 stitch from zero. Therefore, your repeat section consumes 10 stitches, not 12, and your overall row consumes the 33 you have, not 39. If you have further questions about properly executing the YOs, this post will probably be useful to you: http://explaiknit.typepad.com/let_me_explaiknit/2005/11/yo_is_for_yarno.html

Lynne at Sweaterscapes confirmed my supposition: the striped scarf is intarsia on garter stitch. She also said that this pattern will be included in a book due out next year, so you can watch for that if you're interested!

Eileen, that is a great question! And for those following along, the scarf she's referring to is pictured on this page. It's often a little tricky to analyze knitwear from a picture, especially a small one like this, but I'm inclined to think it's not double-knitting, but simple intarsia in a garter stitch fabric. I think that I see horizontal ridges, which would indicate garter, and that would be difficult to do in double-knitting. While you would indeed see the dashed effect I talked about at the color changes on this, it would largely be hidden by the way garter ridges collapse together, except when the fabric was stretched, so it wouldn't be obtrusive. I also think I see a slightly ragged effect at the edges where the colors change between rows, and I would expect to see some of that in garter intarsia; again, it's going to be mostly hidden in the ridges, but I think you'd get a hint of it. That's my take on it, but I think I'll check with the Sweaterscapes people and see if I can get more information; if I do, I'll be sure to add that here!

Georgina, Yes, wrapping the other way will help. As you have noticed, mirrored knitting is a complete mirror, and the stitch orientation is different. What you probably actually want is not *exactly* a mirror, but rather "knitting back backwards" -- similar to mirrored knitting, but with the unmirrored stitch orientation maintained. To do this, on the left-hand rows (where you're working stitches from the right needle onto the left one), instead of bringing your yarn up between the needles and then backwards over the left needle tip, bring it up behind the left needle tip and then forwards and down between the needles. This will maintain your stitch orientation, and give you stitches that are ready to be worked with the unmirrored method on the next row.

Try putting the stitches on waste yarn, allowing plenty of slack, and try them on; that will help you decide if the ribbing itself is too snug, or if it's *just* the bind-off that needs adjustment. If the ribbing itself is tight, I wouldn't go up a needle size, because loose ribbing doesn't grip as nicely, but you might consider increasing in the row right before the ribbing. If it's just the bind-off that's tight, then the sewn bind-offs (and you can find a selection on Lauri B's page: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8mnnp/toesheels.html) are generally the stretchiest, but whatever method you're doing, be sure that you pull the section to the right (the section that's already bound off) out to the right so it's fully extended as you do each stitch; proper spacing is really the critical factor in stretchy bind-offs and cast-ons. Good luck finishing off your socks!

Virginia, It doesn't sound like you did anything wrong, just the possibly the design of the pattern wasn't quite what you were expecting or wanting. Decreasing down from 22 stitches on each needle to 6 is a fairly sharp point, since you've got a bit less than 1/3 of the stitches left there. That might be fine if you have narrow heels -- I myself would like a heel that narrow fairly well, and while it would look very pointed just sitting there, it wouldn't look pointed on my foot. However, if you don't like it, then there's nothing that says you have to follow the directions exactly. Use your stitch gauge to decide what width in the heel would suit you better, and stop when you have that many stitches left. Or use a different decrease pattern altogether to make your heel -- any of the cuff-down style of sock toes will work fine in a forethought/afterthought heel, and can be readily substituted. I'll refer you back to Lauri B.'s toes-and-heels page, which I mentioned in the post, and suggest that you might want to look at the star toe or the German round toe.

Jeri: That's a great idea. I'll add that to my list of future topics to cover.