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tokyo food file

Tokyo

Food writer and restaurant reviewer for the Japan Times contact: foodfile (at) me (dot) com

Recent Activity

Mimosa Ginza – quality dim sum snacks underground in Ginza Sony Park

Congratulations to chef Toshiro Minami on opening his first spin-off, a small take-out kiosk simply called Mimosa Ginza, inside the spiffy new Ginza Sony Park... "Instead of his usual modern Shanghainese cuisine, he has developed a line of excellent dim sum take-out items, including steamed buns, spring rolls, radish pie... Continue reading

Posted Aug 19, 2018 at tokyo food file

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Hi Michael, and thanks so much for dropping a comment here. And sorry I didn't answer you quicker! Hope your umeboshi turned out great. all the best from Japan!

Commented Apr 23, 2018 on Drying Day 4: the ume are boshi at The Umeboshi Blog

Maruka: Shikoku-style ‘udon’ at its best, if you don’t mind the wait

Many of Tokyo’s finest restaurants are so hidden away you hardly know they’re even there. But there’s little chance of missing Maruka. In the unlikely event that you fail to spot the large white noren curtain across the entrance, you won’t miss the long line leading up to it. Year-round,... Continue reading

Posted Jul 28, 2017 at tokyo food file

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From Bacar to Sincere: Chef Shinsuke Ishii is back with a bang

The congratulatory bouquets were arrayed in profusion outside the entrance to Sincere last month, marking its opening in the quiet residential backstreets north of Harajuku. Sometimes those auspicious flowers — sent by well-wishers at the start of any new venture — can seem like mere ritual gestures of support. But... Continue reading

Posted Mar 4, 2017 at tokyo food file

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erba da nakahigashi

Arriving at erba da nakahigashi, you might think you’d stumbled into a plush, exclusive Japanese restaurant, rather than one serving Italian cuisine. The walls down to the basement premises are finished in lacquer and the dining room has no tables at all, just a compact open kitchen with a wooden... Continue reading

Posted Mar 4, 2017 at tokyo food file

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Tokyo dining 2016: Out with the old, in with the new…

TOKYO FOOD FILE YEAR-END 2016 What a year it’s been. Thankfully, the world of gastronomy hasn’t ridden quite the same roller-coaster of frustration, sadness and despair as the political and popular music arenas. Even so, it’s high time to get the Year of the Monkey off our backs with a... Continue reading

Posted Mar 4, 2017 at tokyo food file

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"Ants on a Shrimp" and Noma Japan – an in-depth interview with René Redzepi

In April 2014, chef René Redzepi was riding the crest of a wave. Noma, his iconic Copenhagen restaurant, had just been voted back to #1 on the World 50 Best list, cementing its place as one of the top global dining destinations. And then, at the awards ceremony, he dropped... Continue reading

Posted Dec 17, 2016 at tokyo food file

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Kushi-age and a pint (or two)

A few sticks of kushi-age and a pint of Wabi-Sabi Japan Pale Ale. That can only mean one thing: another session at Baird's spiffy new Takadanobaba Taproom. As featured in my column tomorrow (‪#‎sneakpreview‬)… … which is now up in The Japan Times here… Continue reading

Posted May 20, 2016 at tokyo food file

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Pierre Gagnaire: ‘We must accept the destiny that life imposes’

It was a pleasure – and yes, a great honour – to spend a good part of an afternoon last month with a chef who has long been one of my culinary heroes. My interview with Pierre Gagnaire, condensed down into 20 key questions and answers, runs in the Japan... Continue reading

Posted Mar 12, 2016 at tokyo food file

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Farewell to Omotesando Koffee

December 2015: After a prolonged (4-year) stay of execution, the wonderful Omotesando Koffee is due to finally close its doors at the end of the month. That leaves only a few more days to revisit – or discover for the first time – this modern/retro Tokyo classic. This was my... Continue reading

Posted Mar 1, 2016 at tokyo food file

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Alex Atala collaboration with Yoshihiro Narisawa

I do like a nice formal invitation — especially when it comes from an embassy. This, though, was special: the Brazilian embassy inviting me to a formal sit-down meal cooked by Alex Atala and Yoshihiro Narisawa no less. An opportunity not to be missed. One of the great things about... Continue reading

Posted Feb 26, 2016 at tokyo food file

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Matsubara-an Keyaki: soba sanctuary above the crowds in Harajuku

Introducing Matsubara-an Keyaki in Harajuku. It's the sister restaurant to Matsubara-an, the wonderful soba house in the residential backstreets of Kamakura. Apart from the urban setting, the Harajuku restaurant has much in common with the Kamakura original – from the moment you relinquish your shoes at the door to the... Continue reading

Posted Feb 5, 2016 at tokyo food file

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2015 — the highlights of a great year dining in Tokyo

Another great year for dining out is drawing to a well replete close. But before the bonenkai (“forget the old year” parties) erase the old memory tapes for good, let’s quickly hit that pause button and rewind a few of the finest highlights of the past 12 months… My year-end... Continue reading

Posted Dec 19, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Sayonara to Ivan Ramen

One last pilgrimage to this run-down shopping street in the western suburbs… One last confrontation with this seen-better-days ticket machine… And one last bowl of this remarkable, genre-busting, one-of-a-kind mazemen — the "Everything roasted garlic men"… Yes, sad but true. It was the final weekend for the original Ivan Ramen,... Continue reading

Posted Dec 6, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Tsuta — Michelin-starred ramen (not soba) noodles

Japanese Soba Noodles Tsuta, in Sugamo. The first ramen restaurant ever, anywhere, to be awarded a Michelin star (in the 2016 Tokyo Red Guide)… Don't be fooled by the name: you won’t find buckwheat noodles in your bowl. The name is a proud declaration that ramen is so much a... Continue reading

Posted Dec 4, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Salmon & Trout — delectably eclectic in Daizawa

Three things you need to know before searching out Salmon & Trout: It lies in the suburbs, a ten-minute walk from the nearest station; both inside and out it looks as much like a bicycle showroom as a restaurant; and rarely if ever will the two namesake fish appear on... Continue reading

Posted Nov 21, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Thanks Ryan, much appreciated. It was interesting to compare your photos with my recent visit — and also with my previous visit, which was back in early July. So many similarities, and of course lots of the same serving dishes. But also so many dishes that were different. I especially loved that ayu dish (the second course). cheers!

Commented Nov 14, 2015 on Kohaku: contemporary tradition in Kagurazaka at tokyo food file

Kohaku: contemporary tradition in Kagurazaka

"Tradition looks quite different in Tokyo than, say, Kyoto. Concealed and evolving under constant layers of renewal and reinvention, you have to search it out. Where to start? Just head to the atmospheric nightlife district of Kagurazaka and make your way to Kohaku…" My review of Kohaku is now up... Continue reading

Posted Nov 8, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Hey Ryan, I took a breather on the blog for a bit as I had too much on my plate. But I'm going to crank it back up again from now… Thanks for the comment. I do appreciate it!

Commented Sep 22, 2015 on Shirako takenoko: spring has arrived at tokyo food file

Kamiyama — soba with elegance

Kamiyama. Style and elegance, just steps away from the bustle and bling of Shibuya. As featured in my Japan Times column this week. Arriving at Kamiyama could hardly be more atmospheric. The entrance is set into a black wooden wall along a quiet residential side street. Ankle-high traditional lamps illuminate... Continue reading

Posted Sep 20, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Shirako takenoko: spring has arrived

Bamboo shoots. Takenoko. Dug in the morning in a K... Continue reading

Posted Apr 11, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Superb! Massimo Bottura and Luca Fantin collaboration at Bulgari Il Ristorante, Tokyo

Chef Massimo Bottura, of the exceptional Osteria Francescana in Modena, was in town for a couple of days earlier this week. He was brought over as part of the remarkable and groundbreaking series of events, called "In Cibo Veritas" ("in food there is truth"), organised by Bulgari Il Ristorante in... Continue reading

Posted Apr 1, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Beauty from aloft: cruising altitude over Mt. Fuji

On my recent trip down from Haneda to Singapore, I was treated to a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji from my window-side seat, with the Japanese Alps in the background. I've never seen the sacred mountain look so impressive. No further words needed… Cruising altitude over Mt. Fuji on Vimeo. Continue reading

Posted Mar 16, 2015 at tokyo food file

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Hi Ryan, I'm very interested to hear about your experience at Gaggan, which dovetails with a lot of what I've heard. Great to see your photos too! I haven't visited yet. But having met the chef during my visit to Singapore, I will definitely try to get there when/if I am next in Bangkok. Did those cocktails taste as spectacular as they looked? cheers, Robbie

Commented Mar 16, 2015 on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2015: the ups and downs of the awards at tokyo food file

Alain Ducasse at Washoku-do

In late January, I was back in Kyoto, this time to attend the Washoku-do symposium, an event — hopefully annual — sponsored by the Japanese government to back the propagation of washoku (Japanese cuisine) around the world. The event brought together some of Japan’s most revered chefs, including Yoshihiro Murata,... Continue reading

Posted Mar 11, 2015 at tokyo food file

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