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Judith Watt
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Dear Susie, Great to see Body Map on your blog. The big difference then was that Body Map, John Flett, Richmond Cornejo, Crolla, Workers for Freedom, Mark and Syrie et al did not have FUNDING from the BFC and a unit dedicated to 'Emerging Talent' in the way that young designers do now ... which lasts for a finite amount of time, after which nobody hears from those designers again. Robert Cary Williams? Fintan Walshe? Pearce Fionda?John McKitterick? Body Map had big orders but no money for production. Simple as that. But their concept of changing the body through volume and cut, using distorting prints and sportswear fabric with the new Lycra was revolutionary. Note too their collaborations with Michael Clark and John Maybury ... designers do not work in this way any more. In those days, NO ONE had any money, and the currency was talent. People took risks, Paris and glossy fashion titles were the enemy, just as it was in the 1960s. By the same token, British art colleges took people on TALENT, not on academic qualifications, and saddling students with huge debts. What you are watching is joy, optimism, iconcoclasm and sheer innovation. They - and Flett and Rifat and John Galliano paved the way for Lee McQueen. It is amazing that they are so little known by fashion students today - or taught by their tutors. Today Thomas Persson and I are interviewing Stevie and David for ACNE Paper, and they have just had a great show in the fashion museum in Chile. Here's hoping there will be some response. Well done Susie, your instincts are right.
Toggle Commented Oct 18, 2011 on Mapping out Bodymap at Style Bubble
Thank you Susie, what a great review. Central Saint Martin's School of Fashion is such an important institution whose influence in fashion is a vital part of British culture for the past 60 years. It has been a crucible of design and art talent, from Amanda Lear to filmmakers Derek Jarman and John Maybury to fashion designers Bill Gibb and Katharine Hamnett to Galliano, Stephen Jones, John Flett and Rifat Ozbek. While its more recent Alumni is topped by the late, great Lee McQueen, it has continued to irritate, agitate, cajol, push and propel creative vision from the newer voices of Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll and Christopher Kane. It is telling that that all came from a rundown building in Soho, where so many tutors worked for the love of it. There was no-where else like it in the world and a film that cherishes its past and looks to the future is long overdue.
Toggle Commented Oct 14, 2011 on I Hate My Collection at Style Bubble
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Oct 14, 2011