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Kevin Hamel
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I like this, Alice...
Toggle Commented Mar 14, 2013 on Drinking with Philip Roth at The Feiring Line
You know Alice, when I sent you the book, I just thought you would be interested in peeking a little longer through that crack that was your brief encounter with Joe. Reading your review reminds me that a conversation that should have happened was derailed by an honest answer (as you know, I fully embrace the "When you get work, take it" ethic) to a casual question. And yes, I think you two would have liked each other, though rows would doubtless have been involved.
Toggle Commented Apr 1, 2012 on Vit Lit by Joe Mesics at The Feiring Line
The only down side to native yeast fermentations that I've experienced is that yeast reps don't take you out to lunch any more. Of course, if you tell barrel reps you're not into new oak, you don't get invited on trips to France either. But we still have cork... ;-)
Alice, you would have loved some of the Portuguese examples I ran across during my stay there while rattling around the Minho countryside. Staying at little inns, "Do you have any REAL Vinho Verde?" "Are you sure you want to order that?" They were a sort of pet nat with the bottle fermentation being the malo. In appearance and aroma, a little cidery, creaminess from the mousse, but sappy and refreshing. Never a label and never to be found in a store.
Toggle Commented Dec 7, 2010 on Pity Poor Albariño at The Feiring Line
Beautifully said, Hardy. As Jack says, "Hug 'em while you can!" Hope to be able to sit down over a meal and a bottle ot two with you soon. Cheers, my friend! Kevin
1 reply
The problem with letting indigenous yeasts drive is that they are usually unlicensed and often under the influence, and, well no one wants their wine to be slapped with a DBI (driven by indigenous).
Toggle Commented Nov 23, 2010 on New Yeast to Mimic the Feral at The Feiring Line
Alice, that is an utterly charming post! Thanks for bringing it back.
You may be rich, child You may be poor But when the Lord gets ready You gotta move More lyrics:
Toggle Commented Oct 20, 2010 on Skipping out on Babbo at The Feiring Line
"You have to move." = this one's on you baby. No question...
Toggle Commented Oct 20, 2010 on Skipping out on Babbo at The Feiring Line
Hank, I think it's all about baseline. I've know people with terrific palates who smoked two packs of cigarettes a day...
Oh, and regarding the interaction of winemaking husbandry and terroir, well, in some parts of Italy people use butter, in others, olive oil...
Sometimes the aldehyde is pretty subtle, but still exerts an effect on aromas right at the end of fermentation. I liken its subjugation to sanding a piece of rough-sawn wood - suddenly the grain is exposed and highlighted. A very interesting, if converse, interaction between sulfur and aldehyde was illuminated by some researchers at the Longashton Station of the University of Bristol when I was working in Portugal. They were trying to unravel, or at least get their brains around some of the truisms that had operated in the port trade as late as 1979. Among Port producers, the color of young Port wines was said to "close up" or get darker a month or so after the fermentation was arrested. It was discovered that the aldehyde in the brandy was binding up the sulfur which had been added at crush (usually 100 ppm) and thus mitigating the bleaching effect sulfur has on color.
Hank, Alice, What a little sulfur does, especially post alcoholic fermentation, is bind up acetaldehyde which has a very distinctive aroma (Vin Jaune, sherry). Perhaps by stating "... the wines will not consistently express terroir." he means that our (his?) understanding of these terroirs does not include notes of acetaldehyde
Nice to read Paul being so forthcoming and honest about what they do, and that occasionally you gotta intervene. I also agree whole-heartedly that adding back water that may have been sucked out of grapes by hot dry weather (growers call a dry north wind "the sugar wind" because sugars jump through dehydration) is way gentler than r/o or spinning cone. By the way, I am recalling the mid '70s when some of my friends at Davis became a little disillusioned with a change in style of the Ridge wines which had gone from super powerful to a more food-friendly one. I think this was prompted by Paul showing some of the Ridge wines to some French colleagues and hearing them say "Tastes like Algerian wine."
I am gently yanking your chain, Alice!
Well, you know, adding sugar and yeast to the Champagne, brandy to the sherry...
It's funny. I do like "plain" potato chips but will also go for bar-be-que, or jalapeño, or some other flavored version from time to time. But I pretty much always like my wine "plain"; unless we're talking about vermouth, or Port, or Sherry, or Champagne, or the various vin doux naturels (okay, I'll let the unintended pun stand), or Barolo Chinato, or... oh, fuck it!
Yes, the Gamay and I believe the vintage was '04; same one we tasted at your place, right?
Hey Alice, This is not really what one would call a horror story, but a recent bottle of Courtois 100% was gassy and sour (in a malo-in-the-bottle sort of way). We didn't "muscle though" it because, well, there was a bunch of other good wine on the table. Just on of those situations where one shrugs one's shoulders (as I have had to do with my own wines) and say "Welcome to the world of unfined, unfiltered and unsulfured." Which is to say, there's gonna be bottle variation.
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Sep 28, 2010