Kim Davis's Profile

I blinked — and it was three years later

March 12, 2020 I was drinking with my friend Amy in a Welsh pub in Astoria called Snowdonia. It was pretty empty. We snacked on the Welsh sampler plate: cockle fritters, rarebit and so on. We both knew something was... Continue reading

Posted Mar 15, 2023 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Nathaniel Mackey's Braided Epic

The Scale Simplest to start with the most obviously remarkable thing about Nathaniel Mackey's great double poem: the scale. In April 2021 he published Double Trio, a three volume box set totalling over 1,000 pages of poetry. Compare standard editions... Continue reading

Posted Aug 26, 2021 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Christopher Howse's Nights and Days in Soho

[The Cunning Tower by Kim Davis: December 4, 2018] Christopher Howse was there. Not just in the 1980s, but through much of the 1990s too. If I didn’t recall, as in fact I do, his tweedily bearded appearance, the granularity... Continue reading

Posted Dec 4, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Bywater American Bistro: New Orleans

[Pigging by Wilfrid: November 13, 2018] It had stopped raining. A good thing too, as I'd decided to walk from my Canal Street hotel, through the French Quarter and Marigny district, to Bywater American Bistro, located at the quiet, residential... Continue reading

Posted Nov 13, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Hisop: A Barcelona Revelation

[Pigging by Wilfrid: November 12, 2018] Yes, I've been to Hisop before -- a scarily long time ago. I enjoyed it, but was probably as much focused on my young daughter's enjoyment as my own. Choosing to return, I was... Continue reading

Posted Nov 12, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Do Fish Live in Houses? Emeril's At MGM Grand

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 31, 2018] You have to love the disciplined upsell. Emeril's New Orleans Fish House beckons guests by prominently offering a $65 tasting menu. Good value for the Strip. Once seated, you're told, "Oh it will take... Continue reading

Posted Jul 31, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Frenchette: No Luncheonette

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 26, 2018] Everyone has pronounced on Frenchette already, the four month-old entrant in the city's...bistro? brasserie? canteen? stakes by McNally veterans Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson. What do I have to add? Well don't worry about... Continue reading

Posted Jul 26, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Paco Meralgo: Still A Jewel

Pigging by Kim Davis: February 19, 2018] A tale of two waits, really, posting this dinner from late last year alongside my recent meal at Chez Ma Tante. It's several years since I was last at Paco Meralgo in Barcelona's... Continue reading

Posted Feb 19, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Chez Ma Tante: Not All There

[Pigging by Kim Davis: February 19,2018] A cozy, buzzing room; an interesting location; sweet service. But Chez Ma Tante isn't quite all there yet. But does it matter? It's almost a yearling, it's steadily operating at capacity on busy nights.... Continue reading

Posted Feb 19, 2018 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Ca l'Isidre: Barcelona

[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 29, 2017] It's been Isidre's place for some 47 years. And Isidre has been in the business for 60. And he just won a big Catalunyan gastronomy prize (which is how I have those facts to... Continue reading

Posted Dec 29, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Paname, Je Crie Ton Nom

Free Stuff by Wilfrid: December 23, 2017] Padam! Padam! Padam! Yes, that's a well-known Piaf song, but it's not the one that's relevant here. Less heard. but pretty is Paname, titled after an old slang name for Paris. Paname Tu... Continue reading

Posted Dec 23, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Bufalina: Austin

[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 21, 2017] There's a pair of pizzerias in Austin, Bufalina and Bufalina Due. They're owned by an old chum from the foodweb, Steve Dilley, and represent two of his main obsessions: Neapolitan pizza and fine wines.... Continue reading

Posted Dec 21, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Lonesome Dove: Austin

[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 21, 2017] I didn't have a plan to eat at Tim Love's Lonesome Dove. It just hadn't occurred to me. I knew his work, of course (I'd even filmed with him--see below), but I'd missed his... Continue reading

Posted Dec 21, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Micklethwait Craft Meats: Austin

[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 21, 2017] It was the end of October and Franklin's was still closed because of fire damage (it re-opened in November). Although it was the end of October, the temperature crept towards 90. I was in... Continue reading

Posted Dec 21, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Birch and Julian's, Providence R.I.

[Pigging by Wilfrid: September 17, 2017] First time in Providence. A travel delay meant a ten-minute late arrival for a reservation at Birch, the sleek counter-only (but not tasting menu-only) restaurant from Heidi and Benjamin Sukle, who also run the... Continue reading

Posted Sep 17, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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No. 9 Park and Atlantic Fish Co., Boston

[A Pig at Large by Kim Davis: August 29. 2017] On a recent visit--several more coming up, it seems--I wanted to eat at least one relaxed, grown-up, elegant dinner. Meaning, I suppose, no hard stools, loud music, or menu gimmickry.... Continue reading

Posted Aug 29, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Quick Bites: I Thought It Was Made Nice

[Pigging by Kim Davis: August 29, 2017] Fast and casual, "but is it good?" the Times headline asked about the food at Made Nice. Pete Wells thought not, for the most part. I liked the lunch I ate there; loved... Continue reading

Posted Aug 29, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Quick Bites: Simply Hooked

[Pigging by Wilfrid: May 8, 2017] Simplicity is the eye of the beholder. Great frying is the mouth...of the eater, I suppose. I was on Clinton Street, I was hungry, I'd never noticed Simply Hooked before, and there was no-one... Continue reading

Posted May 8, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Otway Shows The Way

[Pigging by Wilfrid: April 2, 2017] Oh Otway, Otway, how you raised my spirits. I feel I've been on something of a roller-coaster with restaurants recently. Disappointment when traveling, disappointment at home (some exceptions, of course, like Monsieur Benjamin, reviewed... Continue reading

Posted May 2, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Monsieur Benjamin: Très Agréable

[Pigging by Wilfrid: May 2, 2018] Rather like the Spanish Inquisition, I never expected Monsieur Benjamin when I arrived in San Francisco. I really didn't. In fact, I honestly hadn't heard of Monsieur Benjamin, even though it's the brainchild of... Continue reading

Posted May 2, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Status of the Pig. Just so there's no...

Status of the Pig. Just so there's no misunderstanding, I have no plans right now to close the blog down; but I am also giving myself a break from regular (i.e. weekly) posting after ten years. I'll still post when... Continue reading

Posted May 2, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Quo Vadis, Pink Pig?

[By Kim Davis: May 1, 2017] The ten year anniversary came and went on April 27, 2017. A decade of "At the Sign of the Pink Pig." Here's the first post. Ten years has seen--as you'd expect--a lot of changes.... Continue reading

Posted May 1, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Final Dishes From A Diary: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: April 17, 2017] Turning the dust-encrusted heavy vellum pages of my journal, I realize with a mixture of regret and acceptance that: This is where we came in. Ten years of meals, ten years... Continue reading

Posted Apr 17, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Petit Crenn, Boulevard: A Tale Of Two Brigades

[Pigging by Wilfrid: April 10, 2017] Petit Crenn had been on my San Francisco list for the better part of a year--when I've been in town during large-scale conferences, it's been an impossible reservation--and I've heard nothing but consistently good... Continue reading

Posted Apr 10, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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Perfunctory Bouchon, Las Vegas

[Pigging by Wilfrid: April 5, 2017] I've eaten mediocre French bistro food in cities all over the United States. If I want over-salted duck and bread dumped on the table without a smile, I can get that on the Lower... Continue reading

Posted Apr 5, 2017 at at the sign of The Pink Pig

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